Wood Fence Cost Calculator

Wood fence installation runs about $15 to $45 per linear foot installed, so a typical 150-to-200-foot backyard fence lands around $3,000 to $8,000. The wood type sets the base rate — pressure-treated pine ~$22/ft, cedar ~$32, cypress ~$34, redwood ~$42, and wood-composite ~$45. From there, height, style, and terrain adjust it: a 6-ft solid privacy fence costs more than a 4-ft picket or an open split-rail. Gates ($350 to $750 each), old-fence removal (~$4/ft), staining (~$4/ft), and rocky or sloped ground all add to the total. A minimum job charge (about $500) applies to very short runs.

It depends on your budget, climate, and how much upkeep you'll do. Pressure-treated pine is the most popular and economical — chemically treated to resist rot and insects, lasting 15 to 20 years, though it can warp and needs periodic sealing. Cedar is the favorite mid-range pick: naturally rot- and insect-resistant, dimensionally stable, ages to a silvery gray, and lasts 15 to 30 years. Redwood is the premium softwood with excellent beauty and durability at a high price, and cypress is a durable regional favorite in the South. For near-zero maintenance, wood-composite costs the most upfront but never needs staining and won't rot. The calculator prices all of these so you can compare.

Style drives both looks and cost because it changes how much lumber the fence uses. Open split-rail is the cheapest (about 45% below a privacy fence) and offers no privacy — good for marking boundaries or a rustic look. Picket is spaced vertical boards (~15% less), classic for front yards with partial visibility. Solid privacy — boards side by side with no gaps — is the most common backyard choice and the baseline. Shadowbox (good-neighbor) alternates boards on both sides of the rail so it looks the same from either yard with some airflow (+15%). Board-on-board overlaps boards for full privacy even as wood shrinks (+20%), and lattice-top adds a decorative topper (+25%). More boards and detail mean more material and labor.

Height depends on your goal and local rules. Four-foot fences suit front yards, decorative boundaries, and pet containment — the most affordable and often the maximum allowed in front-yard zones. Six feet is the standard for backyard privacy and security and the most common residential height. Eight feet gives maximum privacy and sound buffering but costs about 30% more and may exceed local limits. Most municipalities cap residential fences around 6 ft in back and 3 to 4 ft in front without a variance, and many require a permit — especially for taller fences. Before building, verify your property lines (a survey may be needed), call 811 to mark underground utilities, and check HOA rules on materials, style, height, and color.

For most wood fences, yes — concrete-set posts give the best stability and resist leaning, frost heave, and wind load, which matters most for tall privacy fences that act like sails. The standard method digs a hole about one-third the post height deep, adds gravel at the bottom for drainage, sets the post plumb, and fills with concrete sloped to shed water. The one caveat: if water pools against a wood post inside concrete, it can speed up rot at the base over time, so good drainage and treated posts are important. Some installers use gravel-only setting for certain soils or rail fences, but concrete is the recommendation for privacy and security fencing — the calculator includes it as an add-on.

Lifespan varies by wood and maintenance. Untreated pine lasts about 5 to 12 years; pressure-treated pine 15 to 20; cedar 15 to 30; and redwood and cypress 20 to 30+. Wood-composite often carries 25-year-plus warranties. Longevity hinges on climate (humid, wet regions accelerate rot), ground contact (posts rot first, so concrete-setting and drainage help), and upkeep. Sealing or staining every 2 to 3 years, keeping vegetation and sprinklers off the boards, and promptly replacing damaged pickets can meaningfully extend any wood fence's life. Skipping maintenance is the fastest way to cut those numbers in half, so budget for periodic staining from the start.

It depends on where the fence sits and your local laws. A fence built entirely on your side of the line is yours to maintain. A fence on the shared boundary is often a 'boundary fence,' and many states have good-neighbor statutes where adjoining owners share the cost and upkeep — but the rules vary a lot by state and city. Before building on or near a property line, confirm the exact boundary with a survey, talk to your neighbor and put any cost-sharing in writing, and check your local boundary-fence laws. Disputes over who pays for and maintains a shared fence are common, so a clear agreement upfront saves a lot of friction later.

DIY can save the labor portion — roughly half the total — but it's demanding, detail-sensitive work. You'll dig many post holes (often through roots or hard soil), set posts plumb and concrete them, keep long runs straight and level, hang gates that won't sag, and haul off any old fence. Renting a power auger helps, but an average yard typically takes a determined DIYer a full weekend or more, and common mistakes — leaning posts, sagging gates, wavy lines — are hard to fix after the concrete cures. DIY makes sense for shorter runs, simple styles, and handy homeowners; hiring a pro is worth it for large yards, tall privacy fences, sloped or rocky lots, and warranty-backed results.