Wood Deck Cost Calculator

Most wood decks run $25 to $60 per square foot installed, so a typical 300-sq-ft deck lands between $5,000 and $15,000, with most homeowners paying $5,000 to $10,000. A small, simple pressure-treated deck can be $2,500 to $5,000, while a large, elevated tropical-hardwood deck with upgraded railings and features can top $20,000 to $30,000. The wood type sets the base rate (pressure-treated pine ~$25/sq ft, cedar ~$35, redwood ~$45, ipe hardwood ~$60), and the deck height, railing, and add-ons like stairs, a pergola, and lighting move the total. A minimum project charge (about $1,500) applies to very small decks.

It comes down to budget, looks, and how much maintenance you'll do. Pressure-treated (PT) pine is the cheapest and most common — strong and rot/insect-resistant, but it can warp, crack, and splinter and needs regular staining. Cedar is a naturally rot-resistant softwood with warm color and grain at a mid-range price, though it's soft and dents more easily. Redwood is a premium softwood with rich color and natural durability, pricier and less available outside the western U.S. Tropical hardwoods like ipe are extremely dense and can last 50+ years, but they're the most expensive and hard to work with (special tools and fasteners). PT is the value pick; hardwood is the premium, longest-lasting one. All wood decks need periodic sealing.

Wood wins on natural beauty and lower upfront cost; composite wins on maintenance and longevity. Real wood (PT, cedar, redwood, hardwood) looks and feels authentic, costs less to build (especially PT), and can be sanded and refinished or restained a new color — but it needs cleaning and staining/sealing every 1 to 3 years and generally lasts 15 to 20+ years with upkeep. Composite (Trex, TimberTech) needs only occasional cleaning, resists rot, insects, fading, and splintering, lasts 25+ years, and often carries long warranties — but it costs more upfront, can get hot in direct sun, and can't be refinished. Choose wood for beauty and budget, composite to minimize maintenance. We have separate Trex and composite deck calculators if you're comparing.

Height is a major cost driver because it dictates how much structure sits under the deck. A ground-level or low deck needs minimal posts and no stairs, so it's the cheapest to build. A raised deck — the most common — sits on posts and beams a few feet up and needs a railing and at least one stair run, adding about 20% to the per-square-foot rate. An elevated or multi-level deck (second-story access, or stepped levels) needs taller posts, more framing, bracing, and longer stairs, pushing the cost up about 40%. Taller decks also more often trigger permit and railing code requirements. The calculator lets you set ground-level, raised, or elevated so the structure cost matches your yard.

Usually yes. Decks attached to the house (via a ledger board), decks more than about 30 inches above grade, and decks over a certain size almost always require a building permit and inspections — because the footings, ledger attachment, beam and joist sizing, and railings are safety-critical, and improperly attached decks can collapse. Small, low, freestanding platforms under a set size are sometimes exempt, but rules vary by jurisdiction, so check with your local building department. A reputable deck builder typically pulls the permit and builds to code (footings below the frost line, 36-inch railings, 4-inch baluster spacing, code stairs). Skipping a required permit risks fines, forced removal, failed inspections, and problems when you sell. Also check HOA rules.

Plan on cleaning it at least once a year and staining or sealing it every 1 to 3 years — that periodic refinishing is the main trade-off versus composite. Without sealing, wood grays, dries out, cracks, and rots faster; with it, a deck stays attractive and lasts 15 to 20+ years. Cleaning means sweeping and washing with a deck cleaner (careful pressure washing) to remove dirt, mildew, and mold before sealing. Also inspect yearly for popped fasteners, wobbly railings, splintered boards, and rot at posts and ground contact, and repair promptly. New PT lumber often needs to dry for weeks to months before its first stain, though the deck is usable right away. Higher-sun, high-traffic decks need refinishing more often.

The hands-on construction of a standard deck usually takes a few days to about a week — setting footings and posts, framing the ledger, beams, and joists, laying the decking, and building railings and stairs. Counting the whole project, expect 1 to 3 weeks, since permitting can take days to a couple of weeks, poured footings need curing time, and inspections have to be scheduled between stages. Larger, elevated, or multi-level decks, complex shapes, built-in features, and hard-to-dig or sloped sites take longer, as do hardwoods that need pre-drilling and special fasteners. Removing an old deck first and weather delays add time too. Your builder can give a schedule; most standard decks go up fairly quickly once permitted.

Decks are consistently among the better-returning home improvements, and a wood deck in particular offers strong value because its upfront cost is lower than composite while still expanding usable outdoor living and entertaining space. Remodeling cost-versus-value surveys regularly show wood deck additions recouping a large share of their cost at resale — often more than many interior projects — because buyers value outdoor space and the price of entry is modest. The catch is maintenance: a well-kept deck holds its value and looks great, while a neglected, graying, splintering deck can become a liability. So the investment pays off best when you budget for periodic staining and repairs. For the lowest upfront cost with solid ROI, pressure-treated is the popular choice.