Well Drilling Cost Calculator
Get an instant free estimate for water well drilling based on the depth, diameter, geology, and system scope — from drilling and casing to a complete water system.
Free Well Drilling Cost Calculator
Use this calculator to calculate the cost of well drilling near you for free. Enter your ZIP code for a localized estimate.
Well Depth
Enter the estimated well depth in feet. Residential wells are commonly 100-400 ft deep; depth varies by local water table.
Well Diameter:
Ground / Geology:
System Scope:
Additional Services:
Estimates are instant and require no contact information.
Based on inputs, your Well Drilling project cost is approximately:
Note that the cost above is purely an estimate.
The actual cost may be higher or lower depending on the contractor's quote.
How Much Does Well Drilling Cost?
Well drilling is priced per foot of depth, with the geology setting the rate — from ~$25/ft in soft soil to ~$55/ft in bedrock, scaled by the bore diameter. Most residential wells run $3,500 to $15,000, and a typical 200 ft well lands around $5,000 to $12,000 for the hole and casing alone.
On top of the drilling, the system scope — adding a pump, or a complete pump-tank-plumbing system — is a major cost, and permits, testing, and site work stack on. The catch unique to wells: you pay per foot but won't know the exact depth until the rig hits water. Use the calculator above to price a scenario, then read on for what drives each line.
Well Drilling Cost by Depth & Geology
Drilling & Casing Cost (4-inch bore)
| Depth | Soil (~$25/ft) | Mixed (~$38/ft) | Bedrock (~$55/ft) |
|---|---|---|---|
| 100 ft | $2,500 | $3,800 | $5,500 |
| 200 ft | $5,000 | $7,600 | $11,000 |
| 300 ft | $7,500 | $11,400 | $16,500 |
| 400 ft | $10,000 | $15,200 | $22,000 |
Source: Aggregated licensed-well-driller quote data across U.S. markets, aligned with NGWA practice. 4-inch bore, drilling & casing only; add ~$2,200 for a pump or ~$4,800 for a complete water system. Larger bores cost more.
Common Add-Ons
| Add-On | Typical Cost | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Water Treatment / Filtration | ~$2,000 | Softener / filtration for hard or contaminated water. |
| Waterline Trench to House | ~$1,500 | Trench & bury the supply line from well to home. |
| Electrical Hookup | ~$1,200 | Wiring and trenching to power the pump. |
| Well Permit | ~$400 | State/county permit and well-log filing. |
| Water Quality Testing | ~$250 | Lab test for potability and contaminants. |
| Sanitary Cap & Grout Seal | ~$150 | Protects the well from surface contamination. |
Source: Aggregated quote ranges from licensed well drillers and pump installers. System scope (pump ~$2,200, complete system ~$4,800) is set by the scope option. Regional adjustments applied via the calculator above.
The 6 Factors That Drive Your Quote
1. Well Depth
Drilling is priced per foot, so depth is the single biggest cost factor — and it's set by how far down your local water table sits. Residential wells are commonly 100 to 400 ft, but some regions need 600+. You won't know the exact depth until the rig reaches water, so estimate conservatively from neighbors' wells and county records, and expect the final bill to track the actual footage.
2. Geology / Ground
What the bit cuts through sets the per-foot rate. Soft soil or sand is fast and cheap (~$25/ft); mixed ground with some rock layers is moderate (~$38/ft); and solid bedrock is slow, equipment-intensive drilling (~$55/ft). You can't change the geology under your lot, which is why two nearby properties can get very different quotes for the same depth.
3. Well Diameter
A 4-inch bore is the standard for homes and the baseline. A 6-inch bore (about +30%) yields more water and suits deeper wells; an 8-inch bore (about +70%) is for large residential or agricultural use. Wider bores cost more per foot for the extra casing, larger equipment, and labor — size it to the water demand you actually need.
4. System Scope
Drilling and casing alone is a hole to water, not water at the tap. Adding a submersible pump and controls (~$2,200) makes the well operational, and a complete system (~$4,800) adds the pressure tank, plumbing, and wiring to deliver water to the house. Decide how much of the full system you want quoted so you can compare bids that stop at different points.
5. Permits & Testing
A well permit and state well-log filing are almost always required (~$400), and the driller usually handles them. Water-quality testing (~$250) checks potability and contaminants and is often required before the well is approved for drinking, plus a sanitary cap and grout seal protect the well from surface contamination. These are small line items that keep the well legal and safe.
6. Site Work & Treatment
Getting water from the wellhead to a working faucet often adds site work: an electrical hookup and trench to power the pump (~$1,200), a buried waterline trench from the well to the house (~$1,500), and, if the water is hard or has iron/sulfur, a treatment or filtration system (~$2,000). These depend on how far the well sits from the house and your water quality.
Well vs. City Water — and Budgeting for the Unknown
Two things make well drilling unusual: the big upfront cost versus a lifetime of no water bill, and the fact that you commit before you know how deep you'll go. Here's how to think about both.
A well makes sense when
- City water isn't available or the main is far away — a well may be the only or cheaper option.
- You'll stay long-term: no monthly water/sewer bill often beats municipal costs over many years.
- Nearby wells are proven, so the depth and yield are reasonably predictable for your area.
- You're comfortable owning your water: testing, treatment, and eventual pump replacement are on you.
Budget for depth uncertainty by
- Asking the driller for local well-log data — nearby depths are the best predictor of yours.
- Estimating on the deep side so a deeper-than-expected water table doesn't blow your budget.
- Confirming the per-foot rate and what happens at a low-yield result before signing.
- Setting aside a contingency for a hydrofracture, extra depth, or unexpected bedrock.
How to Vet and Hire a Well Driller
Well drilling is licensed, specialized work, and local geology knowledge separates a smooth job from an expensive surprise. Before you hire:
- Confirm state well-driller licensing and insurance, and that they'll file the required well log.
- Ask about local experience: a driller who knows your area's depths and geology gives a far more reliable quote.
- Get the per-foot rate in writing, along with the diameter, casing type, and what's included versus extra.
- Understand the low-yield policy — what happens, and what you pay, if the well doesn't produce enough water.
What a complete quote should spell out
- The per-foot drilling rate, estimated depth, diameter, and casing material.
- The system scope — drilling only, with pump, or a complete water system.
- The permit, well-log filing, and water testing, and who handles them.
- Electrical hookup, waterline trenching, treatment, and any low-yield or hydrofracture contingency.
Methodology & Sources
This calculator prices drilling from a per-foot rate set by your geology (soil, mixed, or bedrock), scaled by a diameter multiplier (4, 6, or 8 inch), multiplied across the estimated depth for the drilling-and-casing cost. It then adds the system scope(pump, or complete pump-tank-plumbing system) and any flat-fee add-ons (permit, testing, cap/seal, electrical, trenching, treatment), applies a minimum mobilization charge, and adjusts the result to your ZIP code's regional price level. In short: Depth × (Per-Foot Rate × Diameter) + System Scope + Add-ons, then localized. Ranges reflect our aggregated licensed-driller quotes.
Data sources:
- National Ground Water Association (NGWA)
- U.S. EPA — Private Drinking Water Wells
- USGS — Groundwater Information
For a full explanation of how every calculator on this site is built and localized, see our methodology page.
About the Reviewer
Master Plumber
Master plumber focused on water heaters, repipes, leak detection, and whole-home water systems.
View full profile & credentials →Frequently Asked Questions
Most residential water wells run $3,500 to $15,000, with a national average around $5,500 to $9,000. Drilling itself is roughly $25 to $65 per foot depending on geology and diameter, so a typical 150–300 ft well is $5,000 to $12,000 for just the hole and casing. Adding a pump, pressure tank, plumbing, and electrical to make it a working water system adds $2,000 to $5,000+. The total swings mostly on depth (set by your local water table), the ground you drill through, and how complete a system you need — a rock well twice as deep as your neighbor's can cost several times more.
Depth is set by how far down the water table and a reliable aquifer sit in your area — you have to drill below the water table to a sustained supply, with extra depth as a buffer for seasonal and drought fluctuation. This varies enormously: some areas hit good water at 50–100 ft, others need 300–600+ ft. Local geology, elevation, and drought all factor in. The best predictors are nearby existing wells (drillers and county records often have this data) and your local water authority. Because the exact depth isn't known until water is reached, most drillers quote per foot and the final bill depends on the actual drilled depth.
The per-foot rate depends on what the bit has to cut. Soft soil and sand drill fast with standard equipment, keeping costs low (~$25/ft). Solid bedrock — granite, limestone, and the like — is slow, hard work that wears out bits faster, needs more powerful air-rotary or hammer rigs, and burns more time and fuel, pushing rates to $50–$65+/ft. Many wells pass through soil and then hit rock, which is the 'mixed' scenario (~$38/ft). Since you can't change the geology under your property, it's the main reason well costs vary so much between neighbors and regions — and why you can't fully predict the price until the rig is in the ground.
'Drilling only' gets you the borehole, the casing (pipe lining the hole), and a grout seal — a hole to water, but not water at your tap. To actually use it you need a delivery system: a submersible pump (drops into the well and pushes water up), a pressure tank (holds household pressure), a pressure switch and control box, plumbing from the well to the house, and electrical to power the pump. In this calculator, 'with pump' adds the pump and controls (~$2,200), and a 'complete system' adds the pressure tank, plumbing, and wiring (~$4,800 total) so you have running water. Many quotes are turnkey, but always confirm exactly where the price stops.
Almost always. Most states and counties require a well permit before drilling, and the work must be done by a licensed well driller who files a well log with the state. Permits enforce proper setbacks from septic systems and property lines, correct casing and sealing to protect groundwater, and compliance with water-rights rules (some areas restrict or meter private wells). Fees vary ($100–$500+), and the driller usually handles the application — the calculator includes a permit add-on. Many areas also require water-quality testing before a well is approved as potable, so budget for that too.
The actual drilling of a typical residential well is usually 1 to 3 days — a shallow well in soft ground can be a day, a deep bedrock well longer. The full project runs longer once you include permit approval (days to weeks), drilling, installing the pump and pressure system, running plumbing and electrical, and water testing before use — plan on 1 to 3 weeks start to finish. As for lifespan: a well-built borehole can last 30 to 50+ years, but the components don't — submersible pumps last about 8 to 15 years and pressure tanks 5 to 20, so budget for eventual pump replacement and ongoing water testing as part of well ownership.
Often, over time. A well has a big upfront cost ($5,000–$15,000+) but no monthly water bill — you pay only for the electricity to run the pump plus periodic testing and maintenance, which is frequently far cheaper long-term than municipal water and sewer charges. Connecting to city water can itself be expensive if the main is far away (tap fees plus trenching can run thousands), and then you pay monthly forever. In rural areas without city water, a well is often the only option. The trade-offs are the large upfront investment and taking on responsibility for your own water quality and maintenance.
It's the real risk of well drilling: because you pay per foot and the driller can't guarantee where water is, a 'dry hole' or a low-yield well is possible, and you generally still pay for the footage drilled. Good drillers reduce the odds by checking local well logs and geology first, and may recommend a hydrofracture treatment (pressurizing the bedrock to open water-bearing fractures) to boost a weak bedrock well rather than drilling deeper. Ask up front how the driller handles a low-yield result, whether there's any depth cap or contingency in the quote, and what nearby wells produced — the more they know about your area's geology, the smaller the surprise.