Tow Cost Calculator

In 2026, a typical local tow costs about $75 to $150, while longer or specialized tows cost more. Towing is usually priced as a base hook-up fee (commonly $35 to $100) plus a per-mile rate (about $2 to $7 per mile for a standard car, and more for larger vehicles), so a short local tow of a few miles might be around $75-$125, while a 30-40 mile tow can run $150-$300+. The cost depends mainly on the distance (per-mile charges add up), the vehicle class (motorcycles and cars are cheapest; vans and large trucks cost more; RVs, buses, and semis require heavy-duty wreckers and cost much more, with base fees often $150-$500+ and higher per-mile rates), the tow situation (a simple roadside hook-up is cheapest, while accident recovery or pulling a vehicle out of a ditch with a winch costs more), and the timing (after-hours, weekend, and emergency/holiday calls carry surcharges). Add-ons like winching, dollies for all-wheel-drive or locked vehicles, storage/impound fees, and roadside services (tire change, jump start, fuel delivery) add to the total. Long-distance tows (hundreds of miles) are quoted per mile and can run several hundred to over a thousand dollars. This calculator lets you set the distance, vehicle class, situation, and timing, and add services to estimate your tow. Note that many auto insurance policies, roadside assistance memberships (like AAA), and some vehicle warranties include towing coverage that can reduce or eliminate your out-of-pocket cost. Pricing varies by region and company.

Towing is most commonly priced as a combination of a base 'hook-up' fee plus a per-mile rate, though short local tows are sometimes quoted as a flat fee, and the structure varies by company and tow type. The standard model is a hook-up (or base) fee — a fixed charge (often $35-$100) for dispatching the truck and connecting/loading the vehicle — plus a per-mile rate (around $2-$7 per mile for a light-duty vehicle, higher for larger vehicles) for the towing distance. Some companies include the first few miles (e.g., the first 5-10 miles) in the base fee, then charge per mile beyond that. For short local tows, a company may quote a simple flat rate that bundles the hook-up and a typical local distance. For long-distance tows, pricing is predominantly per mile, and the rate per mile sometimes decreases for very long hauls. Heavy-duty towing (RVs, buses, commercial trucks) is often priced differently — sometimes with much higher base fees and per-mile rates, or hourly rates for complex recoveries. Beyond the base and mileage, additional charges apply for special situations (winching/recovery, after-hours, accident scenes) and services (storage, dollies). Because the structure varies, when you call for a tow it's worth asking how they price (hook-up plus per-mile, flat rate, included miles) and getting an estimate for your specific distance and vehicle. This calculator uses the common base-fee-plus-per-mile model, adjusted by vehicle class, situation, and timing, to estimate your tow. Comparing quotes on the same basis (distance and vehicle) helps you understand the cost.

The vehicle's size, weight, and configuration determine what kind of tow truck and equipment are needed, which directly affects the cost — bigger, heavier vehicles require bigger, more expensive equipment and more skill. Light-duty towing covers motorcycles, cars, small SUVs, and small trucks — these are handled by standard tow trucks (flatbeds or wheel-lift trucks) and have the lowest base fees and per-mile rates because the equipment is common and the job is straightforward. Medium-duty towing covers larger vehicles like full-size vans, box trucks, and large pickups — these need a more capable truck and cost more. Heavy-duty towing covers the largest vehicles — RVs, motorhomes, buses, semi-trucks, and commercial vehicles — which require specialized heavy wreckers (large, powerful, expensive trucks) and experienced operators, so base fees and per-mile rates are dramatically higher (heavy-duty tows can cost several hundred to over a thousand dollars). Beyond weight class, the vehicle's drivetrain and condition matter: all-wheel-drive (AWD) or four-wheel-drive vehicles, and vehicles with locked or damaged wheels, often can't simply be pulled and require a flatbed or the use of dollies to avoid drivetrain damage (an add-on), and low-clearance or specialty vehicles may need a flatbed and careful handling. So the bigger and heavier the vehicle (and the more special handling it needs), the more the tow costs. This calculator adjusts the base fee and per-mile rate by vehicle class — motorcycle, light-duty, medium-duty, and heavy-duty — and offers a dolly add-on for AWD/locked vehicles. When calling for a tow, tell them your vehicle type and drivetrain so they send the right equipment.

Winching and recovery refer to the extra work of retrieving a vehicle that can't simply be hooked up at the roadside — for example, a vehicle stuck in mud, snow, sand, a ditch, off an embankment, or involved in an accident — and it costs extra because it requires additional equipment, labor, time, and skill beyond a standard tow. A standard tow assumes the vehicle is accessible on a road or flat surface and can be loaded onto the truck normally. When a vehicle is off the road or stuck, the operator must use the truck's winch (a powered cable) to pull or 'winch' the vehicle out of its predicament and into a position where it can be loaded — this can involve rigging, multiple attempts, navigating difficult terrain or slopes, and sometimes specialized recovery techniques, all of which take more time and carry more risk. Winching is often charged as an additional fee (sometimes per winch 'pull' or per hour), and difficult recoveries (steep embankments, deeply stuck, or accident scenes with damaged vehicles) cost more. Accident recovery specifically can involve a damaged, non-rolling vehicle that's harder to load, cleanup, and coordination at the scene. The harder and more time-consuming the recovery, the higher the cost. This calculator includes a tow-situation factor (standard, accident recovery, or off-road/ditch requiring winching) that increases the estimate for these scenarios, plus a separate winching add-on. If your vehicle is stuck off-road or in a ditch, expect winching/recovery charges on top of the standard tow; describe the situation accurately when you call so the operator brings the right equipment and gives an accurate estimate.

Often yes — towing may be covered by your auto insurance, a roadside assistance membership, your vehicle's warranty, or a credit card benefit, so it's worth checking before paying out of pocket. Auto insurance: many policies offer optional roadside assistance / towing coverage as an add-on (and some include limited towing), which can cover a tow up to a certain distance or dollar amount, often with the insurer arranging the tow or reimbursing you; comprehensive/collision coverage may also cover towing after a covered accident. Roadside assistance memberships: services like AAA, or programs from insurers and other providers, typically include a set number of tows per year up to a certain mileage (e.g., a free tow within X miles), plus services like jump starts, tire changes, lockout help, and fuel delivery — if you're a member, your tow may be free or low-cost within the covered distance, with charges only for miles beyond the limit. Vehicle warranty / manufacturer roadside: many new vehicles come with manufacturer roadside assistance for a period (covering towing to a dealer, etc.). Credit cards: some credit cards include roadside assistance or towing benefits. Auto clubs and even some cell phone plans offer it too. To use coverage, you usually call the provider's number, and they dispatch or reimburse the tow (going outside the network may affect coverage). Before paying for a tow, check your insurance policy, any roadside membership, your vehicle's warranty, and credit card benefits, and call the appropriate number — using covered towing can save you the full out-of-pocket cost. This calculator estimates the towing cost itself, which is useful for knowing what to expect or for comparing against coverage limits (e.g., if your plan covers the first 10 miles and you need 30). Keep your coverage info handy for roadside emergencies.

The two main tow truck types are flatbed (rollback) and wheel-lift (hook-and-chain is largely outdated), and which you need depends on your vehicle and situation — flatbeds are the safest, most versatile option but can cost a bit more. A flatbed (rollback) truck has a flat platform that tilts and lowers to the ground; the vehicle is winched or driven onto the bed and carried entirely off the ground. Flatbeds are the safest and gentlest method because no part of the vehicle drags or rotates on the road, which is ideal for: all-wheel-drive (AWD) and four-wheel-drive vehicles (towing them on their wheels can damage the drivetrain), luxury, exotic, classic, or low-clearance vehicles, vehicles with significant damage or that won't roll, and long-distance tows. The trade-off is flatbeds may cost slightly more and can only carry one vehicle. A wheel-lift truck uses a metal yoke that lifts the vehicle by two wheels (front or rear) while the other two remain on the road; it's more compact and maneuverable (good for tight spots and quick local tows) and often a bit cheaper, and it's fine for many standard front- or rear-wheel-drive cars over short distances — but because two wheels roll on the ground, it's not ideal for AWD/4WD vehicles (unless dollies are added under the rolling wheels) or for vehicles that need full off-ground transport. For AWD/4WD, valuable, damaged, or long-distance tows, request a flatbed; for a standard car on a short local tow, a wheel-lift is usually fine. If a wheel-lift is used on an AWD vehicle, dollies should be placed under the other wheels to prevent drivetrain damage (a dolly add-on). This calculator estimates cost and includes a dolly add-on; when you call, mention your vehicle's drivetrain and condition so the right truck is sent.

Storage and impound fees are charges for keeping a towed vehicle at a tow company's lot or an impound facility, and they accrue daily, so they can add up quickly if a vehicle isn't retrieved promptly. When a vehicle is towed — whether at the owner's request to a repair shop, or involuntarily (impounded by police, towed from private property, or after an accident) — and it's taken to the tow company's storage yard or an impound lot rather than directly to a destination, the facility typically charges a storage fee for each day (or part of a day) the vehicle remains there, commonly in the range of roughly $25 to $75+ per day (rates vary by location and vehicle size, and some areas regulate them). For impounded vehicles, there may also be an administrative or release fee on top of the tow and storage charges, and you usually must show proof of ownership and pay all accumulated fees to release the vehicle. Because storage is daily, retrieving the vehicle quickly minimizes the cost — leaving it for days or weeks can result in large bills, and unclaimed vehicles can eventually be sold/auctioned to recover fees. To avoid or limit storage fees: if you arrange the tow, have the vehicle taken directly to your chosen destination (home or repair shop) rather than a storage lot; if your vehicle is impounded, retrieve it as soon as possible and bring required documents and payment; and check whether your insurance covers storage after an accident. This calculator includes a per-day storage add-on so you can factor it in if the vehicle will be stored. Always ask the tow company about their storage rates and where the vehicle is being taken, and act promptly to keep storage costs down.

Tow truck arrival times typically range from about 30 to 60 minutes for a standard request, though it can be faster or slower depending on several factors. Common factors affecting response time: your location (urban areas with many tow operators usually get faster service than rural or remote areas where trucks are farther away), the time of day and demand (peak times, rush hour, bad weather, or major incidents can mean longer waits as trucks are busy), the tow company's proximity and availability (how close an available truck is), the type of truck needed (a specialized heavy-duty or flatbed truck may take longer to dispatch than a standard one), and how you request it (calling a nearby company directly vs. going through a roadside assistance dispatcher, which can add coordination time). In emergencies — especially if you're in a dangerous location (a busy highway, blocking traffic, or an unsafe area) — let the dispatcher know, as safety situations are often prioritized, and if you're in immediate danger you should call 911. Roadside assistance programs (AAA, insurance) give an estimated arrival time when you request service and often let you track the truck. To get help faster, provide a precise location (cross streets, mile markers, landmarks, or share your GPS location), describe your vehicle and situation accurately so the right truck is sent, and call a local, well-reviewed company or your roadside provider. During severe weather or major events, waits can be considerably longer due to high demand. This calculator estimates the cost rather than the timing, but knowing typical response times helps you plan; when you call, ask for an ETA. For safety while waiting, stay in a safe spot away from traffic and turn on hazard lights.