Termite Treatment Cost Calculator

Termite treatment costs $500 to $2,500 for most homes, with the national average around $600 to $1,500. Localized spot treatments can be as low as $300 to $500, while whole-home approaches cost more: liquid barrier treatments run $1,000 to $2,500, bait station systems $1,200 to $3,000 (including the first year of monitoring), and whole-home fumigation or heat treatment $1,200 to $4,000+ depending on home size. The total is driven mainly by the treatment method (which is largely dictated by the termite species), your home's size (whole-home methods scale with square footage and the foundation perimeter), how severe the infestation is, and the termite type — aggressive Formosan termites cost the most to control. A ~$300 minimum applies. Add-ons like a formal inspection/WDO report, an annual warranty/bond, wood repair, and moisture control stack on top, and most companies sell annual bond renewals ($150–$400/year) to keep protection active. Enter your method, home size, severity, and termite type above for a localized estimate.

There are five common methods. A liquid soil barrier applies a termiticide like Termidor in a trench around the foundation, creating a treated zone that kills subterranean termites — it's long-lasting, works fast, and is the most common whole-home option. Bait stations (like Sentricon) are in-ground stations placed around the property that termites feed on and carry back to the colony, eliminating it over weeks to months — lower-impact, no trenching, and excellent for ongoing monitoring and prevention. Tent fumigation seals the whole home under a tent and fills it with gas that penetrates the wood to kill drywood termites throughout the structure. Heat treatment raises the home to a lethal temperature — a chemical-free alternative to fumigation for drywood termites, usually done in a single day. And spot/localized treatment applies termiticide or foam to a small, contained, accessible infestation, the cheapest option when the activity is limited. The right method depends on the termite species and how widespread the infestation is, which is why an inspection comes first. This calculator prices all five so you can compare.

The species determines which treatment you need, so identifying it correctly is essential — the wrong treatment wastes money and leaves the infestation active. Subterranean termites live in the soil and build mud tubes to reach wood above ground; they're the most common and destructive type in the U.S. and are treated from the ground with liquid soil barriers or bait stations that target the colony in the soil. Drywood termites live entirely inside the wood they eat with no soil contact, often in attics, framing, and furniture; because they're spread throughout the structure rather than tied to the ground, they typically require whole-home fumigation or heat treatment, not soil treatment. Dampwood termites need consistently moist wood and are less common in homes (fixing the moisture source is central to control). Formosan termites are an especially aggressive subterranean species with enormous colonies that cause rapid damage and are the most expensive to control. A professional inspection identifies the species from the evidence — mud tubes and location point to subterranean, while frass (pellet droppings) and internal galleries point to drywood — which then dictates the method and cost. This calculator adjusts for the termite type.

Both are effective against subterranean termites; the best choice depends on your situation. A liquid barrier (e.g., Termidor) creates an immediate treated zone around the home, kills termites quickly, and lasts many years — but it requires trenching and sometimes drilling around the foundation and uses more chemical. Bait stations (e.g., Sentricon) are lower-impact, need no trenching, are excellent for ongoing monitoring and prevention, and eliminate the whole colony over weeks to months — but they work more slowly and rely on termites finding the bait. Liquid is often preferred for an active, urgent infestation you want stopped fast; bait is favored for prevention, environmentally sensitive sites, homes where trenching is impractical (extensive hardscaping), or homeowners who want continuous monitoring. Many providers offer either, or a combination — a liquid treatment to knock down an active infestation plus bait stations for long-term monitoring. Cost-wise they're broadly comparable up front, but bait carries an ongoing monitoring fee. This calculator lets you price both to compare for your home.

Yes — tent fumigation requires all people, pets, and plants to vacate, typically for 2 to 3 days (24 to 72 hours). The home is sealed under a tarp, fumigant gas is introduced to penetrate the wood, and then the company aerates and clears the home and verifies it's safe before you re-enter with a certified all-clear. You'll need to remove or specially double-bag food, medicine, and other consumables using the manufacturer-supplied bags per the company's instructions, and arrange lodging for the family and pets. It's disruptive, but it's the most thorough option for widespread drywood infestations. Heat treatment is the faster alternative — it's usually completed in a single day, uses no chemicals so there's no food-bagging, and you can typically return the same day once the home cools. The trade-off is that heat may not penetrate as uniformly in very large or complex structures, so fumigation is sometimes still preferred for extensive drywood damage. If avoiding a multi-day displacement matters to you, ask whether heat treatment fits your situation.

It depends on the method. A liquid barrier (like Termidor) typically lasts 5 to 10 years before the treated zone needs renewal. Bait station systems work continuously as long as they're maintained and monitored, usually under an annual service contract. Fumigation and heat kill the termites present at the time of treatment but leave no lasting residual protection — so a preventive plan is strongly recommended afterward to stop re-infestation, since nothing stops new termites from arriving. Because termite damage is so destructive and expensive, ongoing protection is widely recommended, especially in high-risk regions. Most companies offer an annual warranty or termite bond ($150 to $400/year) that includes periodic inspections and free re-treatment if termites return while the bond is active — and some bonds also cover damage repair, which is valuable since homeowners insurance generally doesn't. Whether you renew the bond is a cost-vs-risk decision: in a high-termite region or after an active infestation, the annual bond is usually worth it; in a low-risk area, an annual inspection may suffice. This calculator includes an annual warranty/bond add-on.

Generally, no. Standard homeowners insurance excludes both termite treatment and termite damage, because termites are considered a preventable maintenance issue rather than a sudden, accidental event — and the damage develops gradually over time. Insurers expect homeowners to prevent infestations through regular inspections, treatment, and controlling moisture and wood-to-soil contact, so they classify termites as the homeowner's responsibility. There are rare, situational exceptions — for instance, if hidden termite damage leads to a sudden covered event like a structural collapse, some policies might cover the collapse itself — but this is uncommon and often disputed, and the treatment and the termite damage are not covered. The practical takeaway: you'll typically pay out of pocket for both treatment and any structural repairs, which is exactly why proactive prevention and early detection are so cost-effective. The best financial protection is regular inspections plus a termite bond/warranty from a pest-control company, which covers re-treatment (and sometimes damage repair) if termites are found while the bond is active. This calculator estimates the treatment cost you'll likely be paying yourself.

Prevention is far cheaper than treatment and repair, and it comes down to removing what attracts termites — moisture and wood-to-soil contact — plus maintaining barriers and inspecting regularly. Control moisture: fix plumbing and roof leaks promptly, grade the soil and run gutters and downspouts so water drains away from the foundation, and reduce humidity in crawl spaces with ventilation, a dehumidifier, or vapor-barrier encapsulation — a dry home is much less inviting. Eliminate wood-to-soil contact: keep siding, framing, posts, and decks off the soil, don't store firewood or lumber against the house, and keep mulch a few inches off the foundation and not too deep. Maintain a barrier: keep a liquid termiticide barrier or bait-station system in place and renew it as recommended, and consider a termite bond for ongoing monitoring and re-treatment coverage. Get regular professional inspections — annually, or more often in high-risk regions — to catch activity early, when treatment is simpler and damage is minimal. Also seal foundation cracks and gaps around utility penetrations, remove dead stumps and roots near the home, and use pressure-treated or termite-resistant materials near the ground when building or repairing. These steps dramatically cut the odds of a costly infestation. This calculator estimates treatment costs, but prevention helps you avoid them.