Stump Removal Cost Calculator

Full stump removal — excavating the entire root ball out of the ground — typically costs $200 to $350 for a small stump (under 12 inches), $350 to $650 for a medium stump (12–24 inches), $650 to $1,000 for a large stump (24–36 inches), and $1,000 to $1,500+ for extra-large stumps (36+ inches). Those ranges assume normal soil and open access. Removal is priced by the root ball size and excavation difficulty, not by the inch like grinding, so the diameter, root depth, soil type, and site access are the main drivers — rocky soil, deep roots, or restricted access push toward the high end. Debris hauling, backfill with topsoil, and lawn repair are common add-ons. If you have several stumps, each additional one is discounted (the crew is already mobilized). Enter your stump's diameter and site conditions above for a localized estimate.

They solve the same eyesore very differently. Stump grinding uses a hydraulic grinder to shred the stump down about 6 to 12 inches below grade, leaving the root ball underground to decay naturally over several years — it's fast, far cheaper, and leaves your lawn mostly intact. Stump removal excavates the entire root ball out of the ground with a backhoe or mini-excavator, leaving a large hole but no roots behind. Removal costs roughly 3 to 5 times more than grinding and is much more invasive, but it's the right choice when you need to replant a tree in the same spot, install a structure, pour a foundation or patio, or when roots are threatening utilities or a foundation. For most homeowners who just want the stump gone and the ground level, grinding is the economical pick; choose full removal only when you specifically need the roots and the space they occupy cleared. This calculator prices full removal and includes an option to add grinding.

Full removal is invasive by nature — pulling the root ball out of the ground leaves a crater, often 3 to 6 feet wide and 2 to 4 feet deep, plus disturbed soil in a wide radius. The excavator or mini-excavator also leaves track marks and can affect lawn areas 10 to 15 feet from the stump. That's the trade-off versus grinding, which leaves the ground largely intact. Because of the hole, restoration is a real part of the project: the contractor will usually push loose material back in, but that soil is mostly shredded roots and organic matter that sinks as it decomposes, forming a visible depression within a few months. For a clean, stable finish, budget for backfill with clean topsoil (+$150/stump) and lawn repair seeding (+$100/stump). If you're planting a new tree in the spot, replanting prep (+$75/stump) conditions the soil. Factoring restoration into your estimate up front avoids a surprise depression later. This calculator includes backfill, lawn-repair, and replant-prep add-ons.

Yes — this is the single biggest reason homeowners choose full removal over grinding. Grinding leaves the root ball in place, which makes replanting in the exact spot difficult, whereas removal clears the roots and the soil volume for a new tree. After the stump and root ball are out, backfill the hole with clean topsoil (not sawdust or the original mulchy, root-filled soil, which robs nitrogen and settles), let the soil settle for 2 to 4 weeks, and then plant. It's best to avoid planting in the exact same hole for at least one season so any remaining fine roots can decompose — offsetting the new tree a few feet also avoids old root conflicts and any lingering pathogens. Amending the backfill with compost gives the new tree a good start. This calculator includes a replanting-preparation add-on for soil conditioning, plus backfill with clean topsoil, which together set up the spot for a healthy new planting.

For a small stump (under about 10 inches) with shallow roots, DIY removal is feasible with a mattock, a reciprocating saw or bow saw for cutting roots, a shovel, and a chain — but it's very labor-intensive, often a full day of hard digging and prying. For medium or large stumps, DIY hand removal is generally impractical; the root ball is too heavy and the lateral roots too extensive. Renting a mini-excavator ($300 to $600/day) is an option, but you need the skill to operate it safely, the space to maneuver and transport it, and a plan to haul away a very heavy root ball. Chemical stump removers and burning are slow (months) and don't actually excavate the roots, so they're closer to accelerated grinding than removal. Also call 811 before any digging to mark underground utilities — roots often grow along utility lines. For most stumps beyond the smallest, hiring a pro with the right equipment and insurance is safer and, once you factor in rental, time, and disposal, often not much more expensive than a serious DIY attempt.

Stump removal itself usually doesn't require a permit, but two situations can change that: if the tree was taken down under a protected-tree permit, or if the excavation is near utilities or a public right-of-way, permits or inspections may apply — check locally. The bigger safety issue is underground utilities. Tree roots often grow right along water pipes, irrigation lines, electrical conduit, gas lines, and fiber-optic cables, and the root ball can be tangled with them, so excavating blind risks a strike that's both dangerous and expensive to repair. Always call 811 (Dig Safe) before any digging — it's free and legally required in most areas — to have utilities marked. A reputable contractor will hand-dig carefully around marked lines and carry general liability insurance in case of an accidental strike, which you should confirm before work begins. If a stump sits very close to a foundation, septic system, or utility trench, tell the contractor up front so they can plan a careful, sometimes hand-dug approach (reflected in the near-structure access setting).

Yes. Most of a stump-removal job's cost is mobilization — getting the crew, the excavator, and the dump truck to your property. Once they're on site, each additional stump costs less because that setup is already paid for, so contractors discount extra stumps (this calculator applies each additional stump at about 85% of the first). If you have a few stumps to clear, doing them in one visit is meaningfully cheaper than separate appointments, and it spreads the equipment-transport and disposal costs across all of them. The savings are biggest when the stumps are similar in size and close together in the same yard. If you're on the fence about a smaller nearby stump, adding it to the same job is the cheapest time to deal with it. Enter the number of stumps above to see the combined estimate with the multi-stump discount applied.

A single medium stump in normal soil with good access typically takes a one-person crew about 2 to 4 hours including setup, excavation, and cleanup, while large stumps or those with extensive lateral roots can take a full day. Debris hauling — loading the heavy root ball onto a dump truck — adds another 1 to 2 hours. On seasonality, stump removal is less seasonal than tree trimming, but contractors are generally less busy in late fall and winter and some offer 10 to 15% off-season discounts. One caveat: frozen ground makes excavation harder and can raise the cost in cold climates, since rigid soil resists digging. The best value window is usually late fall before a hard frost, or early spring once the ground thaws. Wet, saturated ground is worth avoiding too, since equipment can sink and tear up the lawn — which is why the calculator adds for wet soil conditions.