Privacy Fence Cost Calculator

A privacy fence typically costs $25 to $60 per linear foot installed, so a 150-foot backyard fence usually runs about $3,750 to $9,000 and a 300-foot enclosure about $7,500 to $18,000. A 200-foot run of 6 ft solid wood fence lands near $5,600 in this calculator. The biggest cost drivers are the material (wood is most affordable; vinyl, metal, and composite cost more but need far less upkeep), the height (6 ft is standard, 7 ft and 8 ft cost more), the style (solid, shadowbox, board-on-board, or lattice-topped), and your terrain. A privacy fence costs more per foot than an open-style fence because it's tall and fully solid, using much more material. A ~$600 job minimum applies. Enter your fence length, material, and height above for a localized estimate.

It depends on your budget and how much maintenance you'll tolerate. Wood (cedar or pressure-treated pine, ~$28/linear ft) is the most popular and affordable, looks natural, and is easy to customize — but it needs periodic staining or sealing and eventually weathers. Vinyl (~$35) costs more upfront but never needs painting, won't rot or splinter, and lasts decades with just occasional cleaning. Aluminum or steel privacy panels (~$40) are durable and modern-looking. Composite (~$45) gives a wood-like look with vinyl-like low maintenance and is the priciest. For the lowest upfront cost, choose wood; for the lowest long-term maintenance, vinyl or composite usually wins over the life of the fence. This calculator lets you compare all four side by side.

Six feet is the standard and most common height for a residential privacy fence — tall enough to block the view into a yard from neighbors and the street while staying within what most local codes allow without special approval. If you want extra privacy, more sound buffering, or to screen a two-story neighbor, 7 ft or 8 ft fences are available, though they cost more (about +15% and +30% here) and many jurisdictions cap backyard fence height at 6 ft — front-yard fences much lower — sometimes requiring a permit or variance above that. Always check your local zoning rules and HOA guidelines before going taller than 6 ft. This calculator includes 6, 7, and 8 ft options so you can see the cost difference.

These privacy styles differ in how the boards are arranged. A solid (side-by-side) panel butts boards together on one side — the most economical full-privacy option, though it has a 'good' side and a 'back' side. Shadowbox (good-neighbor) alternates boards on opposite sides of the rails, so the fence looks the same and attractive from both yards and allows some airflow, with privacy from straight-on views (about +10%). Board-on-board overlaps the boards so there are no gaps even as the wood shrinks, giving the most complete privacy and a premium look from both sides, using the most material (about +15%). A lattice top adds a decorative open topper above a solid privacy section (about +20%). If both sides of the fence are visible, shadowbox or board-on-board avoids showing your neighbor the 'back.'

Often, yes. Many cities and counties require a permit for a fence above a certain height (frequently anything over 6 ft, and sometimes for any fence), and they enforce rules on maximum height, setbacks from property lines and sidewalks, corner-lot sight lines, and which side faces out. If you're in an HOA, there are usually additional rules on materials, colors, and styles. Before building, confirm your exact property lines (a survey may be needed), check local zoning and permit requirements, and notify neighbors. Building without a required permit or over the property line can mean fines or having to move the fence. This calculator includes a permit/survey add-on so you can budget for it — it's cheap insurance against a far more expensive dispute.

For a privacy fence, yes — setting the posts in concrete is strongly recommended. Privacy fences are tall and fully solid, so they catch a lot of wind and act like a sail, putting far more load on the posts than an open-style fence. Concrete footings, typically extending below the frost line, keep the posts from leaning, loosening, or being pushed over in storms, and give the fence a much longer life. It's especially important in windy areas and for taller 7–8 ft fences. The trade-off is added material and labor, included here as a concrete-set-posts add-on. At an absolute minimum, all gate and corner posts should always be set in concrete — those take the most stress.

Lifespan depends heavily on material and upkeep. A pressure-treated wood privacy fence typically lasts about 15 to 20 years, and cedar around 15 to 30 years, if it's sealed or stained periodically and the posts were set well — neglected wood fails sooner. Vinyl privacy fences commonly last 20 to 30+ years with almost no maintenance beyond occasional cleaning, and composite is similar or longer. Aluminum and steel privacy panels can last decades and resist rot entirely. Proper installation — especially concrete-set posts below the frost line and good drainage — has a big impact on longevity for any material. Staining or sealing wood every few years is the single best thing you can do to extend a wood fence's life, which is why it's offered as an add-on here.

For a typical residential backyard, installing a privacy fence usually takes 2 to 4 days. The first day or two is laying out the line, digging post holes, and setting the posts in concrete, which then needs time to cure before the panels or boards go up. The rest is attaching rails and pickets (or hanging pre-built panels), hanging gates, and finishing details, plus staining if that's included. Larger yards, taller fences, rocky or sloped ground, premium materials, and many corners or gates extend the timeline. Removing an old fence first also adds time. Weather matters because posts need dry conditions for the concrete to set properly, so a rainy stretch can push the schedule.