Interior Door Installation Cost Calculator

In 2026, interior door installation typically costs $150 to $700 per door, depending on the door style, core type, and installation complexity. A standard pre-hung passage or bedroom door usually runs $200 to $400 installed, a slab door hung in an existing frame is often $150 to $300, bifold closet doors are similar, sliding barn doors cost more at $350 to $700+ (largely for the track hardware), interior French doors run $450 to $1,000, and pocket doors are the priciest at $500 to $1,000+ because they slide into the wall and require more labor (much more if the wall has to be opened up). Solid-core and solid-wood doors cost more than hollow-core. Doing several doors at once lowers the per-door price. Extras like new hardware, trim/casing, and painting add to the total. Interior doors are generally a quick, affordable upgrade compared to exterior doors since they don't need weather-sealing or heavy security hardware.

This is the key decision for most interior door projects. A slab door is just the door panel by itself — you install it when your existing frame and hinges are in good shape and you simply want a new door. The installer mortises the hinges and bores the holes to match the existing jamb, which takes precise work but costs less since you keep the frame. A pre-hung door comes already mounted on hinges inside its own complete frame, ready to set into the rough opening as one unit. You choose pre-hung when the existing frame is damaged or out of square, when you're doing a more complete replacement, or when there's no usable frame. Pre-hung is more foolproof and gives a properly aligned door, but costs a bit more for the added frame and labor. For a straightforward swap where the old frame is fine, a slab saves money; for a cleaner, guaranteed-square result or a damaged frame, pre-hung is worth it. This calculator lets you choose slab or pre-hung passage among the styles.

The core is what's inside the door, and it affects weight, sound insulation, feel, and cost. Hollow-core doors have a honeycomb cardboard or similar lightweight interior with a thin skin on each side — they're the most affordable, lightweight, and easy to install and handle, which makes them the standard builder-grade choice, but they offer little sound blocking and feel less substantial (you can hear the hollowness when you knock). Solid-core doors have a dense composite or particleboard core, so they're heavier, block sound much better, feel solid and high-quality like real wood, and resist dents — they cost more but are a popular upgrade for bedrooms, bathrooms, offices, and anywhere sound privacy matters. Solid wood doors (a true wood core) are the premium tier, offering the best look and sound but at the highest cost and weight. For most rooms, hollow-core is fine and economical; choose solid-core where you want quiet and a quality feel, and solid wood for premium spaces. This calculator includes all three core options.

These two trendy space-saving styles cost more than standard hinged doors, but for different reasons. A sliding barn door hangs from a track mounted on the wall above the opening and slides across the wall surface — the door itself plus the decorative track hardware drives the cost, typically $350 to $700 or more installed depending on the door and hardware quality. Barn doors are relatively straightforward to install (no in-wall work) and add a stylish, rustic look, but they don't seal tightly or provide much sound privacy. A pocket door slides into a cavity inside the wall, disappearing completely when open, which is great for tight spaces — but it's the most labor-intensive interior door, typically $500 to $1,000+ installed, because it requires a special pocket frame kit inside the wall. If you're adding a pocket door where there wasn't one, the wall must be opened up to install the pocket frame, significantly increasing cost. Replacing an existing pocket door is much cheaper than creating a new pocket. This calculator includes both barn and pocket door styles.

Yes, usually noticeably. A significant part of any installation cost is the overhead of the visit — travel, setup, tools, and the installer's minimum charge — which gets spread across all the doors when several are done together rather than charged for a single door. Once the installer is on site and working through similar doors, each additional one goes faster and more efficiently. So replacing all the interior doors in a home at once, or doing a batch of bedroom and closet doors together, costs less per door than doing them one at a time. The savings are most pronounced on standard, similar doors (like a houseful of matching passage doors), where labor is a big share of each door's cost. Mixed or specialty doors (a pocket door here, French doors there) each have their own requirements, so the bundling benefit is a bit smaller, but there's still efficiency in one combined visit. If you have several doors to do, get them quoted together. This calculator reflects per-door pricing for the quantity you enter.

Interior doors are one of the more DIY-friendly home projects, especially pre-hung doors and simple slab swaps, if you're reasonably handy and have basic tools. A pre-hung door is the easiest because the door comes already hung in its frame — you set the unit into the opening, shim it plumb and level, fasten it, and trim it out. Replacing a slab in an existing frame is doable but trickier, since you must precisely mortise the hinges and bore the handle holes to match the old door (a hinge template and door-knob jig help). The keys to a good result are getting the door plumb, level, and square so it swings and latches properly without binding or drifting, which can be fiddly in older homes with out-of-square openings. Specialty doors — pocket doors (especially new ones requiring opening the wall), barn door track mounting into studs, and French doors — are more involved and often better left to a pro. Many homeowners successfully install standard passage and closet doors themselves; if you want a guaranteed clean result, have many doors, or face tricky openings, hiring an installer is worthwhile. This calculator estimates professional installation cost.

Yes, interior doors come in standard sizes, which makes replacement easier and cheaper when your openings match. Standard interior door height is 80 inches (6 feet 8 inches), and common widths are 24, 28, 30, 32, and 36 inches — bedrooms and main passage doors are often 30 or 32 inches, bathrooms and closets sometimes narrower, and 36 inches is used for wider/accessible openings. Standard thickness is 1-3/8 inches for interior doors. If your openings are standard sizes, you can buy stock doors off the shelf affordably and installation is straightforward. If you have a non-standard or older opening (older homes sometimes have unusual sizes), you may need a custom-sized door or a slab cut/planed to fit, which costs more and adds labor. Pre-hung doors also come in standard rough-opening sizes. When planning, measure your existing doors and openings (width, height, thickness, and the jamb depth for pre-hung) so you order the right size. This calculator's pricing assumes standard interior doors; significantly non-standard or custom doors can cost more.

Interior doors install relatively quickly, which is part of why they're an affordable, high-impact upgrade. A pre-hung interior door replacing an existing one can often be installed in about 1 to 2 hours, so an installer might do several in a day — replacing all the doors in a typical home is often a one-day job. A slab door that needs fitting to an existing frame (mortising hinges, boring for the handle) can take a bit longer per door because of the precise work. Bifold closet doors are quick. Specialty doors take longer: a sliding barn door takes more time to mount the track securely and level, interior French doors need careful alignment of the pair, and pocket doors are the slowest — replacing an existing pocket door is moderate, but installing a new pocket door that requires opening the wall to fit the pocket frame can turn into a multi-hour or multi-day job with drywall work. Adding new trim/casing and painting also extends the timeline (painting adds drying time). Your installer can give a specific schedule based on how many doors, the styles, and whether any openings need modification.