HVAC Repair Cost Calculator

Most HVAC repairs run $150 to $2,000+, depending entirely on what failed. Minor electrical fixes (capacitor, contactor, thermostat) are roughly $150–$450; a refrigerant leak repair/recharge is about $200–$1,500; a blower or fan motor $400–$900; an evaporator or condenser coil $600–$2,000; a compressor $1,200–$2,800+; and a furnace heat exchanger $1,500–$3,500. A diagnostic/service-call fee (often $75–$150) usually applies and is sometimes credited toward the repair. The system type and age adjust the price slightly. Use the calculator above to estimate your repair by component, system, and age.

The most frequent — and cheapest — are electrical: a failed capacitor (which starts the motors) or contactor is a common, quick, affordable fix when the unit won't start. Refrigerant leaks and low refrigerant are very common AC issues, causing weak cooling and iced coils. Thermostat faults are an easy fix. Dirty or frozen coils and clogged filters (maintenance issues) hurt performance, and a clogged condensate drain causes water leaks and shutoffs. Blower/fan motor failure is mid-range. On the expensive end, compressor failure and furnace heat-exchanger cracks are major, less-common repairs. Many problems trace back to skipped maintenance, which is why tune-ups prevent breakdowns.

Lean toward repair when the system is relatively young (within its lifespan — central AC 12–17 years, furnaces 15–20+, heat pumps 10–15), the fix is minor to moderate, and it isn't breaking down repeatedly. Lean toward replacement when the system is old, the repair is major and costly (compressor, coil, heat exchanger), the repair approaches half the cost of a new unit, it's inefficient, it fails often, or it uses phased-out R-22 refrigerant. Two rules of thumb help: the '$5,000 rule' (age × repair cost over $5,000 favors replacing) and the '50% rule' (a repair over ~50% of a new system favors replacing). For a young system with a modest fix, repair; for an old unit with a big repair, replacement usually wins long-term.

'Not cooling' has many causes at very different prices. A clogged air filter restricts airflow (cheap/DIY fix, and it can freeze the coil). Low refrigerant from a leak causes weak cooling and icing — finding and fixing the leak plus recharge runs $200–$1,500+. A frozen evaporator coil traces back to low airflow or low refrigerant. Dirty condenser or evaporator coils reduce heat exchange (moderate cost to clean). If the outdoor unit won't start, a failed capacitor or contactor is a common, inexpensive fix ($150–$450). A failed compressor won't cool at all and is a major repair ($1,200–$2,800+). Start by checking the filter, thermostat, and breaker; if those are fine, a technician should diagnose the exact cause before you spend on parts.

Typically $200 to $1,500+, and it's one of the most variable repairs. Cost depends on finding the leak (small or hidden leaks take time to detect), the leak's location (an accessible joint is cheap; a leak in the evaporator or condenser coil is expensive and may mean replacing the coil for $600–$2,000+), and the recharge — priced by the pounds of refrigerant, with obsolete R-22 now very expensive versus newer R-410A. Important: simply 'topping off' without fixing the leak is a temporary, wasteful, and environmentally harmful fix — a proper repair finds and seals the leak, then recharges. On an old R-22 system needing a coil or a lot of refrigerant, replacement is often more economical than the repair.

Yes — it's standard. The diagnostic/service-call fee (often $75–$150) covers the technician's travel, time, and expertise to inspect your system, run tests, and identify the problem, regardless of whether you proceed. Handling varies: some companies credit the fee toward the repair if you have them do the work, while others charge it separately; emergency or after-hours diagnostics cost more. It's reasonable — diagnosing HVAC problems takes skill and equipment even when the fix turns out simple, and 'free diagnostics' sometimes come with upsell pressure. Ask upfront what the fee is and whether it applies to the repair, get a written repair quote before authorizing work, and for major repairs consider a second opinion.

Significantly, yes. Many failures stem from neglect — dirty filters and coils, low refrigerant, worn parts, loose connections, clogged drains. A professional tune-up cleans the coils, checks refrigerant and electrical connections, tests the capacitor, clears the drain, and inspects the system, catching a weak capacitor, small leak, or worn motor while it's cheap to fix rather than after a breakdown on the hottest day. Benefits: fewer and less severe repairs, longer system life, better efficiency and lower bills, and it often keeps the manufacturer's warranty valid (many require documented maintenance). Aim for a tune-up once or twice a year, and change the filter regularly — the single most valuable DIY task. A tune-up is a low-cost add-on to pair with a repair.

Most repairs finish in a single visit, from under an hour to a few hours. Quick fixes — capacitor, contactor, thermostat, fuse, fan motor, refrigerant recharge, drain clearing, coil cleaning — are usually same-visit if the part is on the truck. Moderate repairs like a blower motor or an involved leak repair take a few hours. Major repairs — compressor, coil, or heat exchanger — are labor-intensive (several hours to most of a day) and may require ordering a specific part, delaying the fix by days until it arrives. The main delay is usually parts availability for non-stocked components. Emergency/after-hours service can get a technician out fast for a premium when you have no heat or cooling in extreme weather.

The technician inspects the system, checks electrical components and refrigerant, tests operation, and pinpoints the failed part, then gives you a repair quote. Repairs are typically priced flat-rate per repair (parts + labor bundled), not purely hourly, which is why this calculator estimates by the primary repair rather than by the hour. Our per-repair figures already fold in the labor and diagnostic effort. The system type nudges the price — heat pumps (+10%) and mini-splits (+5%) have more complex parts — and age matters, since old systems (12+ years) run about 15% more for harder-to-find parts and tougher access. For multiple failing systems, the calculator multiplies by the number of units.

Sometimes. A manufacturer's warranty typically covers defective parts for a set period (often 5–10 years, sometimes longer if registered), but usually not the labor to install them, and it can be voided by skipped maintenance or unpermitted work. A home warranty (a service contract you buy) may cover HVAC repairs or replacement subject to a service fee, coverage caps, and exclusions — read the fine print, since pre-existing issues and 'improper maintenance' are common denial reasons. Neither replaces a good contractor. If your system is still under manufacturer warranty, confirm the part is covered before paying full price, and keep your maintenance records, since documented tune-ups are often required to keep coverage active.