Hurricane Shutters Cost Calculator

Hurricane shutters typically run $15 to $50+ per square foot of opening installed, so protecting a typical home with about 250 square feet of windows and doors ranges from roughly $2,000 for basic panels to $15,000+ for premium motorized roll-downs. The shutter type is the biggest driver — removable panels are cheapest, accordion and Bahama are mid-range, and roll-downs are the priciest. The total opening area, the wind rating, and whether roll-downs are motorized also move the price. Use the calculator above to price your project by opening area, type, material, and operation.

Five common types, in rough order of cost. Removable storm panels (~$9/sq ft) are corrugated steel or aluminum that you bolt over openings before a storm and store afterward — cheapest, but labor-intensive. Bahama shutters (~$18/sq ft) are top-hinged and prop out like an awning, giving shade plus storm protection. Accordion shutters (~$22/sq ft) are permanently mounted beside the opening and unfold to lock in the center — a popular, convenient, lockable choice. Colonial shutters (~$25/sq ft) are decorative side-hinged pairs that close over the window. Roll-down shutters (~$38/sq ft) roll down from a housing above, often motorized — the most convenient and protective, and the most expensive.

For many homeowners, yes — accordion shutters are one of the most popular options because they balance cost, convenience, and protection. They're permanently mounted in compact stacks beside each opening, so there's nothing to store and no scrambling to bolt up panels before a storm; you simply unfold them across the opening and lock them in the center, which one person can do for the whole house quickly. They're lockable for year-round security, handle large openings and patios well, and cost far less than roll-downs. The main trade-off is looks: the folded housings are visible beside each window when open, though they come in colors to blend in. If convenience and value matter most, accordions are an excellent middle-ground pick.

Often, yes. In coastal and hurricane-risk regions, insurers commonly offer windstorm-mitigation credits for approved opening protection, and the savings can be significant over time. To qualify, the shutters usually must be code-approved, rated products, cover all the openings (not just some), and be documented — in states like Florida through a wind-mitigation inspection report you submit to your insurer. Because a single failed opening can lead to catastrophic damage, insurers reward protecting the whole envelope. The exact discount depends on your insurer, state, and coverage level, so ask your agent which products and coverage qualify before you buy — the credit is a real part of the value equation.

It depends on budget, convenience, and whether you're replacing windows anyway. Impact windows are permanent laminated-glass replacements that protect all the time with nothing to deploy, plus year-round security, noise reduction, UV protection, and energy savings — but they're the most expensive option since you're replacing the whole window. Hurricane shutters protect your existing windows for less (especially panels and accordions), are a great retrofit, and some types add security, but most require action before a storm and don't offer the everyday energy and noise benefits. Choose impact windows for zero-effort, clean-look, year-round protection if the budget allows; choose shutters (accordion or roll-down for convenience, panels for low cost) to protect existing windows affordably.

All of them. The standard recommendation is to protect every opening — every window, exterior door, sliding glass door, skylight, and the garage door — because a single unprotected opening can compromise the whole home. If debris breaks one window during a hurricane, the sudden inflow of high-pressure wind builds up inside and pushes outward on the walls and roof, which can cause the roof to lift off. Don't overlook the garage door (large and vulnerable, sometimes needing its own reinforcement) and second-story windows. Building codes in hurricane zones require protecting all openings on new work, and insurance credits typically require full coverage. Since the calculator uses total opening area, enter the square footage of every window and door you'll protect.

Some, but professional installation is usually recommended and sometimes required. Basic removable panels are the most DIY-friendly — you install tracks or anchor bolts around each opening once, then put panels up before storms — but the anchoring must be done correctly into the structure for the panels to actually hold. Permanent systems (accordion, roll-down, Bahama, colonial) need precise structural mounting, proper alignment, and often electrical work for motorized roll-downs, so they're best left to pros. Critically, for shutters to meet code, qualify for insurance mitigation credits, and keep their warranty, they typically must be installed to manufacturer specs and pass inspection — improper DIY work can void all three. A permit is usually required.

The physical install on an average home usually takes one to three days, depending on the number and size of openings and the shutter type — panel tracks go up quickly, while accordion and roll-down housings take more time per opening (roll-downs with motors also need electrical work). The bigger timeline factor is lead time: custom-sized shutters, specific colors, and made-to-order roll-downs can take weeks to manufacture, plus permitting and a final inspection. The key lesson: don't wait until a storm is forming. During hurricane season, installers get booked solid and materials get backordered, so measure, order, and permit well ahead of when you'll actually need the protection.

Yes. Standard aluminum shutters are the baseline, while heavy-duty or higher-wind-rated shutters — built for stronger storms or large-missile impact zones near the coast — cost about 15% more in our calculator. The rating you need depends on your location: homes in high-velocity hurricane zones must meet stricter standards and larger design pressures, which means beefier shutters and hardware. It's worth matching the rating to your actual risk and local code rather than under- or over-buying. A local installer familiar with your county's requirements can tell you exactly which rating your openings need to be compliant and insurable.

If budget forces you to phase the project, cover the largest and most vulnerable openings first — though understand that partial protection leaves the home incompletely safe, and code or insurance may require covering everything. The garage door is often the single most important, because it's large, relatively weak, and its failure can pressurize the whole house. Big glass expanses — sliding patio doors, French doors, and large picture windows — are next, since they present the biggest debris target. Then the remaining windows and doors, including second-story ones. Many homeowners mix solutions to cover everything cost-effectively: roll-downs or accordions on large, frequently used, or hard-to-reach openings, and panels on the rest.