Gutter Replacement Cost Calculator

Gutter replacement typically runs $6 to $30 per linear foot installed, including tearing off and hauling away the old gutters. For an average home with 150–200 linear feet, popular seamless aluminum totals about $1,200–$3,500, while premium copper can push a whole-home job past $5,000. The biggest drivers are the material (vinyl and aluminum are affordable; zinc and copper are premium), the gutter size, seamless vs. sectional, and your home's height, since multi-story access takes more time and equipment. Leaf guards and new downspouts add on.

The work is similar, but replacement specifically includes removing and disposing of your existing gutters — and inspecting the fascia behind them — before the new ones go up, whereas a fresh installation starts from bare fascia on a new build or addition. Because replacement bundles in the tear-off and haul-away, that demolition labor is baked into the per-foot rate here rather than added separately. If you're putting gutters on a home that never had them, that's an installation and the removal cost wouldn't apply.

Watch for cracks, splits, or rust holes; sagging or gutters pulling away from the fascia; peeling paint or water marks below the gutters; pooling water or eroded soil at the foundation; and overflow even after cleaning. Seams that leak repeatedly, runs that won't hold pitch, and water getting behind the gutter into the fascia and soffit are red flags. If you're patching the same spots every season, replacement usually beats ongoing repairs — and age matters too, since aluminum lasts about 20 years.

For most homeowners, yes. Seamless gutters are roll-formed on-site from a continuous coil cut to each run's exact length, so the only seams are at corners and downspout outlets — dramatically fewer leak points than sectional snap-together gutters that fail over time. They cost a bit more and need a pro with a forming machine, but the durability, cleaner look, and reduced leaking make them the standard for replacement. Sectional can suit a tight budget or a small DIY run, but seamless is the better long-term value.

Five-inch K-style is the standard residential size and handles most typical roofs. Step up to 6-inch for a large roof, steep pitches, or heavy-rainfall areas — the wider trough carries roughly 40% more water and overflows less, and it pairs with larger downspouts that clog less easily. Six-inch costs about 20% more, but on big or steep roofs the extra capacity prevents overflow damage. Oversized 7-inch exists for very large or light-commercial roofs. A good installer sizes gutters to your roof's drainage area.

Often, yes. Downspouts carry water down and away from the foundation, so if yours are dented, undersized, leaking, or poorly placed, replacing them with the gutters makes the whole system match and drain properly — and new downspouts seal correctly to new seamless gutters. It's a per-foot add-on here. While you're at it, make sure water is carried well away from the house with splash blocks, extensions, or an underground drain tie-in to protect the foundation — all options in the calculator.

Replacement is the ideal time — the installer is already at the roofline and can fit guards matched to your new gutters. Guards keep leaves and debris out of the troughs, meaning far less cleaning and lower clog-and-overflow risk, which is especially valuable on multi-story homes or houses under heavy tree cover. They add to the upfront cost (about $7 per linear foot here) and no guard is fully maintenance-free, but if you have lots of trees or dread the ladder, they're a smart add-on.

Not automatically — but it's the perfect moment to check. Old gutters that leaked or overflowed often rot the fascia board behind them, and new gutters need sound fascia to hang from securely. During tear-off the installer can see the fascia and flag any soft, rotted sections for repair (a common add-on here). Fixing it before the new gutters go up prevents sagging and pull-away later, so budget for it if your old gutters were leaking against the roofline.

Seamless aluminum is the go-to for most homes: affordable, rust-proof, ~20-year life, and available seamless in many colors. Vinyl is cheapest but brittle in cold climates and only sectional. Galvanized steel is stronger for heavy snow but costs more and can rust if its coating is damaged. Zinc and copper are premium metals that last for decades and look distinctive — worth it on high-end or historic homes where they'll outlast the roof. Match the material to your climate, budget, and how long you'll keep the home.

A typical single-story home is usually one day: the crew removes and hauls the old gutters, inspects and repairs any rotted fascia, then forms and hangs the new seamless gutters, attaches downspouts, and checks the pitch. Larger or multi-story homes, premium materials like copper that need careful fabrication, and add-ons like leaf guards or an underground drain tie-in can stretch it to two days. Dry weather matters for safe ladder and roofline work. It's one of the quicker exterior projects.