Fill Dirt Cost Calculator

Fill dirt typically runs $5 to $25+ per cubic yard delivered, so most projects land between $200 and $2,000 — a small single-load job might be $200 to $500, while a large fill with spreading and compaction can exceed $2,000 to $5,000+. The dirt itself is cheap (often $5 to $15 per cubic yard for basic fill); delivery, spreading, and compaction are what add up. The main drivers are how many cubic yards you need, the fill type (basic is cheapest, structural/select the most), the load size (bulk orders get a per-yard discount), and the service level (dump-only vs. spread vs. compacted). Enter your quantity, fill type, delivery amount, and service level in the calculator above for a localized number.

Fill dirt is sold by the cubic yard, and the formula is length × width × depth (all in feet) ÷ 27. So a 20 × 15-foot area filled 1 foot deep is 20 × 15 × 1 = 300 cubic feet ÷ 27 ≈ 11 cubic yards. For a depth in inches, convert first (6 inches = 0.5 ft). Break irregular areas into rectangles and add them up, or use an average depth for uneven ground. Crucially, order about 10–20% extra to account for compaction and settling, since loose fill shrinks once it's compacted or settles over time. Getting the quantity right avoids paying for a second delivery — enter your calculated cubic yards in the calculator to price it.

They're different soils for different jobs. Fill dirt is subsoil — the layer below topsoil — made of clay, sand, rock, and minerals with little to no organic matter. Because it doesn't decompose, it's stable and compactable, which is exactly what you want for filling holes, raising grade, and building structural pads under foundations, slabs, and driveways. Topsoil is the fertile top layer, rich in organic matter and nutrients, used for growing grass, gardens, and plants — but it settles and shifts as the organics break down, so it's wrong for structural fill. The two are often used together: fill dirt for the bulk and base, then a topsoil cap on top where you'll grow. The calculator prices fill dirt, with a topsoil-cap add-on.

Three tiers for different needs. Basic fill dirt (~$12/cu yd) is general, unscreened subsoil for filling holes, raising grade, and bulk fill where appearance and precision don't matter. Clean or screened fill (~$18) is sifted to remove rocks and debris, giving a more uniform material — useful when you need a cleaner, more workable fill. Structural or select fill (~$25) is engineered, compactable fill designed to support loads under foundations, slabs, driveways, and roads without settling. Use basic fill for general earthwork and structural fill anywhere the ground will bear weight — using non-compactable fill under a structure is a recipe for settling and cracks. The calculator prices all three.

For anything structural, absolutely. Fill under foundations, slabs, driveways, or building pads must be compacted in lifts (layers of 6–12 inches, each compacted with a plate compactor or roller) to reach a stable density — uncompacted fill settles and shifts under load, which cracks or fails whatever sits on top. Important projects use structural/select fill and may require compaction testing to spec. For non-structural work like filling a hole or general grading, compaction is less critical, but some compaction (or allowing time for natural settling) still helps prevent future low spots. Either way, order 10–20% extra material to cover the volume lost to compaction. The calculator offers spreading, compaction service levels, and a compaction-equipment add-on.

By dump truck. The supplier hauls the loose dirt to your site and dumps it in a pile at an accessible spot — a driveway, yard, or near the fill area. A standard dump truck holds roughly 10–16 cubic yards depending on the truck, so large jobs take multiple loads or a larger truck or trailer. From there you have three service levels: delivery/dump only (cheapest — you or your contractor spread it), delivery plus spreading and grading (the crew places it with a skid steer or tractor), and delivery plus spreading and compaction (for structural fill). Plan for truck access (gates, overhead clearance, firm ground) and a dump spot near the fill area to minimize re-handling. Long delivery distances add cost, which the calculator captures as a long-haul add-on.

Just about any job that adds soil to fill, raise, level, or support. Common uses include filling holes, low spots, old pools, ponds, and trenches; raising or changing the grade to improve drainage or build up around a foundation; leveling uneven ground for a yard or building site; creating compacted pads under sheds, garages, driveways, and slabs; backfilling around foundations and utility trenches; and forming berms and landscaping mounds. Match the fill to the job — basic fill for general work, structural/select fill anywhere it'll bear a load. For spots where you'll grow grass or plants, fill with dirt for the base and cap it with topsoil. It's a versatile, inexpensive earthwork material.

Sometimes, yes — the trick is that the dirt is nearly free but the hauling isn't. Construction sites, excavations, and pool digs often have surplus subsoil they'd rather offload than pay to dispose of, and sites like Craigslist or local 'dirt exchange' listings sometimes advertise free fill. The catches: you usually have to arrange and pay for trucking, the quality is unknown (it may contain rock, debris, or clay unsuitable for structural use), and 'free' dirt isn't screened or compaction-rated. It can be great for filling a low spot or a non-structural raise where quality doesn't matter, but for anything load-bearing you'll want known structural fill. The calculator prices delivered fill so you can compare against the cost of hauling 'free' dirt yourself.

It depends on how much you're moving and where. Small fills — topping a low spot or leveling a yard — usually don't need a permit. But larger grading projects, changing drainage in a way that affects neighbors, filling near wetlands or a floodplain, or altering the grade against local ordinances can require a grading permit and sometimes an engineered plan. HOAs may have rules too, and you generally shouldn't redirect water onto a neighbor's property. It's worth a quick check with your local building or planning department before a big fill or regrade, especially near property lines, slopes, or water. For most modest residential fills, no permit is needed — but confirm before a major grading job.

Plan on 10–20% more than your exact calculated volume. Fill dirt is delivered loose and full of air; once it's placed and compacted — or simply left to settle under rain and gravity over weeks — that volume shrinks noticeably. If you order only the precise calculated amount, you'll likely end up short and have to pay for a small second delivery, which carries its own delivery fee and often a higher per-yard small-load rate. The denser you compact it and the deeper the fill, the more shrinkage you'll see, so lean toward 20% extra for deep or structural fills and 10% for shallow, loose fills. The calculator lets you enter your final quantity including that buffer.