Fill Dirt Cost Calculator

In 2026, fill dirt typically costs $5 to $25+ per cubic yard delivered, so most projects run between $200 and $2,000 depending on the amount and services — a small project might be $200-$500, while a large fill (many cubic yards, with spreading/compaction) can exceed $2,000-$5,000+. The dirt itself is inexpensive (often $5-$15 per cubic yard for basic fill), with delivery, spreading, and compaction adding to the cost. The cost depends mainly on the cubic yards needed (the quantity — calculated from the area and depth to fill), the fill type (basic fill dirt is cheapest; clean/screened fill costs more; and structural/select fill is the most expensive), the delivery quantity (a small load costs more per yard; a bulk/large order gets a volume discount), and the service level (delivery/dump only is cheapest; delivery plus spreading costs more; and delivery plus spreading and compaction is the most). Fill dirt is soil (typically subsoil, the layer below topsoil, often containing some clay/rock and few organics) used to fill holes, raise or change the grade/elevation of land, level uneven areas, fill in around foundations, create pads, fill pools/excavations, and other earth-filling needs. It's different from topsoil (the nutrient-rich top layer used for growing plants/lawns) — fill dirt is for filling/grading, not growing. Add-ons like excavation/site prep, a topsoil cap layer (adding topsoil over the fill for planting), compaction equipment, finish grading, erosion control, and long-haul delivery add to the total. This calculator lets you set the cubic yards, fill type, delivery quantity, and service level to estimate your project. Pricing varies by region, the amount and type, the delivery distance, the services (spreading/compaction), and the supplier. A small basic-fill delivery is at the lower end, while a large structural-fill project with spreading and compaction is at the higher end. Fill dirt is an affordable material for filling and grading land.

Fill dirt and topsoil are two different types of soil used for different purposes — fill dirt is subsoil used for filling and grading (structural/earthwork), while topsoil is the nutrient-rich top layer of soil used for growing plants, grass, and gardens. Using the right one for the job is important. Fill dirt: fill dirt is subsoil — the soil from below the topsoil layer — typically containing clay, sand, rock, and minerals, with little to no organic matter (no/few nutrients, roots, or decomposed material). Purpose: fill dirt is used for filling and grading — filling holes, raising or changing the land's elevation/grade, leveling uneven ground, filling around/under foundations and structures, creating building pads, filling in pools or excavations, and other earthwork. Because it has little organic matter, it's stable and compactable (doesn't decompose, settle, or shift much over time as organic material would) — making it good for structural fill where you need a stable, solid base (under foundations, slabs, driveways). It's not for growing plants (lacks nutrients). Cheaper than topsoil. Topsoil: topsoil is the top layer of soil (the upper few inches), rich in organic matter, nutrients, and microorganisms — the fertile layer where plants grow. Purpose: topsoil is used for growing — establishing lawns, gardens, planting beds, leveling for grass, and improving soil for plant growth. It's not used for structural fill, because the organic matter decomposes and the soil settles/shifts over time (which would cause problems under structures). More expensive than fill dirt. Key differences: Composition — fill dirt is subsoil (clay/rock/minerals, no organics); topsoil is the top, organic-rich, nutrient-dense layer. Purpose — fill dirt for filling/grading/structural fill; topsoil for growing plants/grass. Stability — fill dirt is stable and compactable (good under structures, doesn't decompose/settle); topsoil decomposes and settles (not for structural use). Growing — topsoil supports plant growth; fill dirt doesn't (no nutrients). Cost — fill dirt is cheaper; topsoil costs more. When to use each: Fill dirt — for raising/leveling grade, filling holes/excavations, building pads, structural fill under foundations/driveways/slabs, and any earthwork where you need a stable, compactable base (not for planting). Topsoil — for lawns, gardens, planting, and the top layer where you'll grow grass/plants. Often used together — a common approach is to use fill dirt for the bulk fill/grading (the structural base), then cap it with a layer of topsoil on top where you want to grow grass or plants (this calculator includes a topsoil cap add-on). So you might fill with fill dirt and top with topsoil. This calculator is for fill dirt; the topsoil cap is an add-on. So fill dirt is subsoil for filling/grading/structural fill (stable, cheap, no growing), while topsoil is the fertile top layer for growing plants/grass (more expensive) — use fill dirt for earthwork/base and topsoil for the growing layer. Don't use fill dirt where you need to grow, or topsoil for structural fill. Often used together (fill + topsoil cap). Choose the right soil for the purpose.

To determine how much fill dirt you need, calculate the volume of the area you're filling in cubic yards — by multiplying the length × width × depth (all in feet) and dividing by 27 (since there are 27 cubic feet in a cubic yard). Fill dirt is sold and priced by the cubic yard. The basic calculation: Measure the area — measure the length and width of the area to fill (in feet), and determine the depth/thickness of fill needed (in feet — convert inches to feet, e.g., 6 inches = 0.5 ft). Calculate the volume — multiply length × width × depth (in feet) to get the cubic feet. Convert to cubic yards — divide the cubic feet by 27 (there are 27 cubic feet in a cubic yard) to get the cubic yards. Example: filling a 20 ft × 15 ft area to a depth of 1 ft: 20 × 15 × 1 = 300 cubic feet ÷ 27 ≈ 11.1 cubic yards. Filling a 30 × 20 ft area 6 inches (0.5 ft) deep: 30 × 20 × 0.5 = 300 cubic feet ÷ 27 ≈ 11.1 cubic yards. For irregular areas — break the area into rectangular sections, calculate each, and add them up; or for varying depths, use an average depth. For round areas, use π × radius² × depth ÷ 27. Account for compaction/settling — fill dirt compacts and settles after placement, so order a bit extra (often ~10-20% more) to account for compaction (especially if it will be compacted) — the loose volume reduces when compacted/settled. So you may need more than the exact calculated volume. Account for the situation — for filling a hole or low area, estimate the volume of the void; for raising a grade, calculate the area times the rise. Tips for accuracy: measure carefully, use consistent units (feet), account for the depth variation, and add extra for compaction. A supplier or contractor can help calculate the amount based on your project. Quantities and trucks: fill dirt is delivered by the cubic yard (or by the truckload — a typical dump truck holds about 10-16 cubic yards, varying by truck). For large amounts, multiple loads or larger trucks are used. Knowing your cubic yards helps determine the loads needed. Why it matters: ordering the right amount avoids running short (needing another delivery, with additional delivery fees) or over-ordering (wasted material/cost). Calculate carefully (with extra for compaction). This calculator lets you enter the cubic yards (use the calculation above) to estimate the cost. So calculate the fill dirt you need as length × width × depth (in feet) ÷ 27 = cubic yards, adding ~10-20% extra for compaction/settling. Measure the area and depth carefully. The cubic yards determine the amount and cost. A supplier can help verify the quantity. Order a bit extra to account for compaction.

Fill dirt is used for a wide range of filling, grading, and earthwork applications — wherever you need to add soil to fill, raise, level, or support — including filling holes/depressions, raising or changing the grade, leveling land, building pads, structural fill, and more. Common uses: Filling holes and depressions — filling in holes, low spots, depressions, old pools, ponds, excavations, trenches, or voids in the ground. A primary use. Raising/changing the grade (elevation) — raising the elevation of land or changing the grade (slope) — to raise a low area, build up the ground around a foundation, improve drainage (sloping the grade away from a structure), or create a higher elevation. Common for managing water/drainage and elevation. Leveling land — leveling uneven or sloped ground to create flat, usable areas (for a yard, patio area, building site, etc.). Building pads — creating a level, compacted pad/base for a structure (a building, shed, garage, driveway, or slab) — structural fill provides a stable base. Filling around foundations — backfilling around foundations and structures after construction. Filling pools/ponds — filling in an old swimming pool, pond, or water feature being removed. Structural/load-bearing fill — using compactable structural fill under foundations, slabs, driveways, roads, and other load-bearing applications (where the fill must support weight without settling — structural fill is engineered/compacted for this). Berms and landscaping — creating berms, mounds, raised beds (with topsoil on top), or landscaping features. Erosion/drainage correction — regrading to fix erosion or drainage issues. Trench/utility backfill — backfilling trenches after utility work. Construction site prep — preparing/grading construction sites. The right fill for the use: Basic fill dirt — for general filling, raising grade, and non-structural applications. Clean/screened fill — where a more uniform, rock-free fill is needed. Structural/select fill — for load-bearing applications (under foundations, slabs, driveways) where the fill must be compactable and support weight without settling (using the wrong, non-compactable fill under structures causes settling/failure). Match the fill to the use. Often capped with topsoil — for areas where you'll grow grass/plants, fill dirt is used for the bulk/base and then capped with topsoil (the growing layer) on top. Why fill dirt: it's an affordable, stable material (subsoil, low organic content) that doesn't decompose/settle like organic soil — making it ideal for filling and structural applications where stability matters. This calculator estimates the cost for various fill needs (with fill type and service options). So fill dirt is used for filling holes, raising/changing grade, leveling, building pads, structural fill, backfilling, and many earthwork applications — wherever you need stable soil to fill or support. Choose the right fill type for the application (basic vs. structural). It's a versatile, affordable earthwork material. Match the fill and services to your project.

Whether fill dirt needs to be compacted depends on the application — for structural or load-bearing uses (under foundations, slabs, driveways, or where stability is critical), yes, fill dirt must be compacted, while for non-structural filling (filling a hole, general grading), compaction may be less critical (though some compaction/settling time is still beneficial). Compaction is important for stability where loads or structures are involved. When compaction is necessary (structural/load-bearing): Under foundations, slabs, driveways, roads — fill dirt that will support a structure or bear loads MUST be properly compacted (in layers/lifts) to provide a stable, solid base. Uncompacted fill will settle and shift over time under the weight, causing the structure above to settle, crack, or fail (a serious problem). Structural/select fill is compacted in lifts (layers) with proper equipment to achieve the required density (often to engineering specs, with compaction testing for important projects). Building pads — pads for structures need compaction for a stable base. Where settling would cause problems — any application where future settling would be problematic (under hardscape, structures, etc.) needs compaction. Proper compaction (in lifts, to the right density) is essential for these — it's not optional for structural fill. This calculator includes compaction service and equipment options. When compaction is less critical (non-structural): Filling a hole/depression (general) — for simply filling a hole or low area where nothing structural will be built, less compaction may be acceptable (though some compaction or allowing time for natural settling helps reduce future sinking). General grading/landscaping — for raising grade or landscaping (not under structures), light compaction or natural settling may suffice, though compacting helps prevent excessive settling. Even for non-structural fill, some compaction (or accounting for settling) is beneficial to minimize future low spots. How compaction is done: proper compaction involves placing the fill in lifts (layers, often 6-12 inches), and compacting each lift with equipment (a plate compactor, roller, or compactor) to achieve density — building up the fill in compacted layers (vs. dumping it all at once, which leaves it loose and prone to settling). The right moisture content also matters for compaction. For important projects, compaction is tested. Settling/extra material: because fill compacts/settles, order extra material (~10-20%) to account for the volume reduction when compacted/settled. Even uncompacted fill will settle over time (so allow for settling or compact it). Why it matters: proper compaction prevents settling, shifting, and instability — critical for anything structural (or it can lead to costly damage). For non-structural fill, compaction/settling-time reduces future sinking/low spots. Matching the compaction to the use is important. This calculator includes service levels (delivery only, with spreading, with compaction) and a compaction equipment add-on. So fill dirt needs to be compacted for structural/load-bearing uses (under foundations, slabs, driveways — essential to prevent settling/failure), and benefits from some compaction even for general filling (to reduce future settling). Compact structural fill properly (in lifts); for non-structural, compact or allow for settling. Order extra material for compaction. Proper compaction is critical where stability matters. Don't skip compaction under structures.

Fill dirt is typically delivered by dump truck — the supplier loads the fill dirt and delivers it to your site, dumping it at an accessible location (or spreading it if that service is included) — with the quantity measured in cubic yards and the number of loads depending on the amount and truck size. Delivery method: Dump trucks — fill dirt is delivered by dump trucks, which haul the loose dirt to your site and dump it (tilt the bed to unload) at the designated spot. The truck dumps the load in a pile at an accessible location on your property (a driveway, yard, or near the fill area). Truck sizes/capacity — dump trucks vary in capacity: a standard dump truck typically holds about 10-16 cubic yards (varying by truck), while smaller trucks hold less and larger trucks (or trailers) hold more. For large amounts, multiple loads or larger trucks/trailers are used. The number of loads depends on your cubic yards and the truck size. Dump location/access — the truck needs accessible space to deliver and dump (a path the truck can reach, room to dump). The dirt is dumped where accessible, and may need to be moved/spread from there to the fill area (unless spreading is included). Consider where the truck can access and dump on your property (driveway, yard) and how the dirt will get to the fill area. Service options: Delivery/dump only — the most basic (and cheapest) option: the supplier delivers and dumps the fill dirt in a pile at the accessible spot, and you (or your contractor) spread/place it. You handle moving and spreading the dirt. Delivery + spreading — the supplier/contractor delivers and spreads/grades the fill dirt at the fill area (using equipment like a skid steer/tractor) — more convenient (you don't have to spread it), at a higher cost. Delivery + spreading + compaction — delivery, spreading, and compaction (compacting the fill for stability) — for structural fill or where compaction is needed (the most service/cost). For large/structural projects, the supplier or an excavation contractor handles the delivery, placement, and compaction. The process: you order the amount (cubic yards) and type of fill, schedule the delivery, the truck(s) deliver and dump (and spread/compact if included), and you confirm the placement. For large jobs, a contractor may coordinate the dirt delivery with the earthwork (excavation, grading, compaction). Considerations: Access — ensure the truck can access your property and the dump location (gates, paths, overhead clearance, soft ground). Dump location — plan where the dirt will be dumped (accessible, and reasonably near the fill area to minimize moving it). Quantity/loads — know your cubic yards to determine the loads. Spreading — decide if you'll spread it yourself (delivery only, cheaper) or have it spread/compacted (more cost, more convenient/proper for structural). Distance — long delivery distances increase the cost (this calculator includes a long-haul add-on). Local sources — sometimes free or cheap fill dirt is available (from construction sites/excavations needing to offload dirt), though you'd arrange/pay for hauling. This calculator includes delivery quantity and service level options (delivery only, with spreading, with compaction) and a long-haul add-on. So fill dirt is delivered by dump truck (dumped at an accessible spot, by the cubic yard, in loads based on the truck size), with options for delivery-only, delivery + spreading, or delivery + spreading + compaction. Plan for truck access, the dump location, and whether you need spreading/compaction. Order the right quantity and service for your project. Delivery is straightforward by dump truck; choose the service level you need.