Fence Removal Cost Calculator

Fence removal typically runs $3 to $10 per linear foot, so taking out a 200-foot fence usually lands around $600 to $2,000, with a minimum charge for small jobs. Chain link is the cheapest to remove, followed by vinyl/aluminum and wood, while a masonry (block or brick) wall is by far the most expensive because it's a demolition job, not a dismantling one. The biggest cost factors are the material, how the posts are set (concrete-set posts cost much more than posts driven into dirt), the fence height, and whether the crew hauls away and disposes of the debris. Enter your length, material, post setting, height, and disposal in the calculator above for a localized number.

They're the two biggest drivers because they determine how the fence comes apart and how heavy the debris is. Chain link and panelized vinyl or aluminum come down fast — unbolt or unclip the panels and pull the posts. Wood takes a bit more (pickets, rails, and posts). A masonry wall is a different animal entirely: it must be broken up with heavy tools and generates tons of rubble to haul, which is why it rates far higher. Post setting stacks on top: posts driven into dirt pull straight out, but concrete-set posts each have a buried footing that must be dug out or broken up and hauled, adding about 40%. Together, material and post setting can swing a quote several-fold.

Because each post is anchored in a buried mass of concrete. Posts simply driven into the dirt (common on chain link and quick installs) can often be rocked and pulled straight out. But concrete footings — standard on sturdy wood, vinyl, and ornamental fences — have to be either dug out whole (heavy, slow, and labor-intensive) or broken up with a breaker, and then the concrete has to be hauled away by weight. That's why the calculator adds about 40% for concrete-set posts. Some homeowners cut posts off at grade and leave the footings in the ground to save money, but those buried obstructions can interfere with new fencing or landscaping, so full removal is usually worth it if you're rebuilding.

Almost always, yes — the old fence has to come out before a new one goes in, and it's often most efficient to have the same contractor do both. The new fence needs clear ground and post locations, and old posts and footings would obstruct the layout, so they must be removed (occasionally posts in good condition can be reused if the new fence matches). Bundling removal with installation is usually convenient and can be cheaper than separate jobs, since the crew is already on site with equipment — many installers include or quote old-fence removal as part of a replacement. This calculator prices removal on its own so you can budget it either way. If you're getting a new fence, ask whether the installer's quote already includes tearing out and disposing of the old one.

Pulling posts and footings leaves holes that should be filled and the ground regraded — otherwise you're left with a line of depressions that are tripping hazards, collect water, and look bad. Basic removal may leave the holes open, so filling them with soil and tamping and grading is often a separate step (the calculator has a fill-and-regrade add-on). If you're installing a new fence on roughly the same line, the new posts may go in at or near the old locations, so filling is minimal. If you're clearing the fence to open up the yard, you'll want the holes filled and the ground leveled, possibly topped with soil and seed to blend into the lawn. Always clarify whether your quote includes filling post holes and grading — leaving open holes is a common oversight.

It's a demolition project rather than a dismantling job, and it costs several times more than an equivalent length of wood or chain link. A masonry fence — concrete block, brick, or stone — is a solid, mortared structure on a concrete footing, so it can't be unscrewed or pulled apart; it must be broken up with sledgehammers, breakers, or a jackhammer or excavator, generating large volumes of heavy rubble that's costly to haul and dispose of by weight. The footing usually has to be broken out too. That's why the calculator rates masonry around $12 per linear foot versus $3.50–$5 for other fences, and why the concrete-haul add-on matters most here. Expect significant debris and a longer timeline for any block or brick wall.

Usually not for a simple residential fence, but it depends on the situation. Most areas don't require a permit just to take down a standard fence. A permit or extra steps may apply in specific cases: removing a required safety barrier like a pool fence is often regulated, demolishing a masonry wall may need a permit, and a shared fence on or near the property line generally means coordinating with — and notifying — your neighbor first, since it may be jointly owned. HOAs may also have rules. It's worth a quick check with your local building department for masonry walls or pool barriers, and always talk to neighbors about a shared line. The calculator includes a permit add-on for cases where one is needed.

DIY removal saves the labor cost and is doable for many homeowners, but it's harder and slower than people expect — especially the posts and disposal. Taking down the panels or chain link mesh is easy; the challenge is the posts (concrete-set ones need digging or breaking out heavy footings) and the debris, which is bulky and heavy and usually needs a truck or dumpster plus dump fees. You'll want a reciprocating saw, a post-hole digger or pry bar, maybe a jackhammer for concrete, and a way to haul it. For a short, light, driven-post fence, DIY is very reasonable; for long runs, concrete footings, masonry, or if you lack tools and hauling, a pro is often worth it. Many people remove the easy sections themselves and hire out the posts and disposal.

It's a real cost lever. Leaving the debris piled on-site for you to dispose of is the cheapest option, while having the crew haul it away to a disposal site adds about $2 per linear foot to cover loading, transport, and dump fees. Haul-away makes sense if you don't have a truck or dumpster, don't want the mess sitting in your yard, or the debris is heavy (concrete footings and masonry are expensive to dispose of by weight). Keeping it on-site can save money if you already have a dumpster from another project, can repurpose the material, or your municipality offers bulk pickup. The calculator lets you choose, and adds a separate concrete-haul option for the heavy footing debris specifically.

For a typical residential fence, removal is usually quick — often a few hours to a day, depending on length, material, and how the posts are set. Chain link or panel fencing with driven posts comes down fast; concrete-set posts slow things considerably because each footing must be dug out or broken. A long run, tall fence, or one with many concrete footings can take a full day or more. Masonry wall demolition takes the longest because of the heavy breaking and the volume of debris to haul. Disposal adds time too — loading and hauling, especially heavy concrete. If removal is part of a fence replacement, the teardown is just the first phase before the new fence goes in.