Free Concrete Patio Cost Calculator

Use this calculator to calculate the cost of concrete patio near you for free. Enter your ZIP code for a localized estimate.

Patio Size

Enter the patio area in square feet (length × width). A typical patio is 200-400 sq ft.

Finish:

Slab Thickness:

Existing Surface:

Additional Services:

Extra Gravel Base & Grading (+$2/sq ft)
Rebar / Wire Reinforcement (+$1.50/sq ft)
Decorative Border Band (+$3/sq ft)
Sealer Topcoat (+$0.75/sq ft)
Concrete Steps (+$400)
Permit & Inspection (+$200)

Estimates are instant and require no contact information.

Based on inputs, your Concrete Patio project cost is approximately:

$2,400

Note that the cost above is purely an estimate.
The actual cost may be higher or lower depending on the contractor's quote.

How Much Does Concrete Patio Cost?

A concrete patio typically runs $6 to $20 per square foot installed — so a 300 sq ft broom-finish patio is about $2,400–$3,600, and a stamped one $4,500–$6,000. The finish is the biggest driver, swinging the price more than the size for a typical patio.

Beyond the finish, cost is driven by the area, the slab thickness, any old-surface removal, and site prep. Two things to remember: the base and control joints prevent cracks more than slab thickness alone, and sealing protects decorative finishes. Use the calculator above to localize the estimate, then read on for what drives the quote.

Concrete Patio Cost by Finish & Options

Average Cost by Finish

FinishInstalled / Sq Ft300 Sq Ft Patio
Broom Finish$6 – $10$1,800 – $3,000
Colored / Stained$9 – $14$2,700 – $4,200
Exposed Aggregate$11 – $16$3,300 – $4,800
Stamped / Decorative$13 – $20$3,900 – $6,000

Source: Baseline labor anchored to U.S. Bureau of Labor Statistics, Cement Masons & Concrete Finishers (SOC 47-2051); material and ranges reflect our aggregated concrete-contractor quote data. Assumes a 4-inch slab over a gravel base, no removal.

Thickness, Removal & Add-On Costs

ItemCostNotes
Thickness (5 in / 6 in)+$1 / +$2 per sq ft4-inch standard is the baseline.
Remove Old Patio+$3 / sq ftDemolition & disposal of the existing surface.
Base & Grading / Rebar+$2 / +$1.50 per sq ftStable base; crack-resisting steel.
Decorative Border / Sealer+$3 / +$0.75 per sq ftContrasting band; protective topcoat.
Concrete Steps / Permit+$400 / +$200Grade-change steps; permit & inspection.

Source: Aggregated quote ranges from licensed concrete contractors. Regional adjustments applied via the calculator above.

The 6 Factors That Drive Your Quote

1. Patio Size

Concrete patios are priced per square foot — measure length × width (a 16×20 ft patio is 320 sq ft), and break L-shaped or curved patios into sections. A typical residential patio is 200–400 sq ft. Cost scales with area, but a job minimum applies, so a very small patio costs more per foot than a big one.

2. Finish

The biggest cost factor. A broom finish (~$8/sq ft) is the economical, slip-resistant standard. Colored/stained (~$11) adds tint. Exposed aggregate (~$13) reveals decorative stone. Stamped/decorative (~$16+) mimics brick, slate, or pavers — the highest cost but the biggest curb-appeal upgrade. The structural slab is the same; you're paying for the surface.

3. Slab Thickness

Standard patios are 4 inches over a compacted gravel base. Upgrading to 5 inches adds ~$1/sq ft and 6-inch heavy-duty (usually with rebar) adds ~$2/sq ft. Go thicker and reinforced only under heavy features — a hot tub, outdoor kitchen, or vehicle traffic — where the extra capacity prevents cracking. A standard patio doesn't need more than 4 inches.

4. Existing Surface / Removal

A new pour on prepared ground is the baseline. If you're replacing an old patio or slab, demolition and disposal of the existing surface adds about $3/sq ft. Tearing out a cracked or heaving old patio and pouring on a fresh, compacted base usually outlasts overlaying it — the old problems telegraph through an overlay.

5. Base, Rebar & Reinforcement

What's under and within the slab determines whether it lasts. Extra gravel base and grading for poor or uneven soil (+$2/sq ft) gives a stable, draining foundation. Rebar or wire-mesh reinforcement (+$1.50/sq ft) resists cracking. These — plus proper control joints — matter as much as thickness for a crack-free patio. Never pour on bare dirt.

6. Border, Steps, Sealing & Permit

The finishing and project extras: a decorative border band in a contrasting color or stamp (+$3/sq ft), concrete steps where the patio changes grade (+$400), a sealer topcoat to protect the surface and enhance decorative finishes (+$0.75/sq ft), and a building permit and inspection where required (+$200). Add the ones your project needs.

Which Finish — and Concrete vs. Pavers?

The finish drives the look and most of the cost; the base and joints drive how long it lasts. Here's the honest breakdown.

Pick the finish

  • Broom finish for the best value — durable, non-slip, low-maintenance.
  • Color or exposed aggregate for a modest upgrade with good durability.
  • Stamped for a showcase paver/stone look — accept resealing every 2–3 years.

Concrete or pavers?

  • Concrete for lower cost, faster install, and low maintenance.
  • Pavers for a premium, repairable surface that flexes without cracking — at higher cost.

Don't skip

  • A compacted base & control joints — they prevent cracks more than thickness.
  • Extra thickness/rebar only under hot tubs, kitchens, or heavy loads.

How to Vet a Concrete Contractor

A patio lives or dies on the base, joints, and finish — the parts a cheap bid skimps. Before you hire:

  • Confirm a compacted gravel base and the right thickness for your intended use.
  • Ask about control-joint placement and reinforcement to manage cracking.
  • Discuss the slope/drainage away from the house, and sealing for decorative finishes.
  • Verify licensing/insurance and references, with photos of comparable patios.

What a complete quote should spell out

  • The area, finish, and slab thickness.
  • The base prep, reinforcement, and joint plan.
  • Whether old-patio removal, a border, steps, sealing, and the permit are included.
  • The cure timeline (when to use it) and the warranty.

Methodology & Sources

This calculator sets a base installed rate per square foot by finish (broom $8, colored/stained $11, exposed aggregate $13, stamped $16 — materials and labor for a 4-inch slab over a gravel base) and multiplies by your area. It then adds a per-square-foot thickness uplift (5-inch +$1, 6-inch +$2), a per-square-foot removal charge for tearing out an existing patio (+$3), and per-square-foot or flat add-ons(extra gravel base/grading, rebar/wire reinforcement, a decorative border, a sealer topcoat, concrete steps, and the permit/inspection), enforces a job minimum, and scales the result to your ZIP code's regional price level. In short: Sq Ft × Finish + Thickness + Removal + Add-ons, × Regional Factor. Baseline labor is anchored to federal concrete-finisher wage data and calibrated against our aggregated concrete-contractor quotes.

Data sources:

For a full explanation of how every calculator on this site is built and localized, see our methodology page.

About the Reviewer

HA
Hector Alvarez

Concrete & Paving Cost Estimator

Senior estimator for concrete flatwork, asphalt paving, and hardscape installations.

View full profile & credentials →

Frequently Asked Questions

A concrete patio typically runs $6 to $20 per square foot installed, so a standard 300 sq ft broom-finish patio is about $2,400–$3,600, while a stamped or decorative patio of the same size can reach $4,500–$6,000. A basic 4-inch broom finish is at the low end ($6–$10/sq ft); colored, exposed aggregate, and stamped finishes run $11–$20. The drivers are the area, the finish (the biggest factor), the slab thickness, whether an old patio must be removed, and site prep like grading and a gravel base. Small patios carry a minimum charge because the fixed cost of forming and finishing doesn't shrink much. Enter your area, finish, thickness, and removal in the calculator to anchor the estimate.

A standard broom finish is the cheapest and most popular. After the concrete is poured and smoothed, a broom is dragged across the surface to create a fine texture that gives slip resistance — important for an outdoor surface that gets wet. It's economical (~$6–$10/sq ft installed), durable, and low-maintenance. Colored or stained concrete adds visual appeal for a bit more (~$11), exposed aggregate exposes decorative stone (~$13), and stamped concrete, which mimics stone, brick, or pavers, is the most expensive decorative option (~$16+). If budget is the priority, a broom finish — optionally with a single integral color for a low-cost upgrade — gives the best value, and you can still seal it for a richer look. The calculator prices all four finishes so you can compare.

Generally yes — a poured concrete patio usually installs cheaper than a paver patio of the same size. Plain or broom-finish concrete is the most economical option, while pavers cost more for the materials and the labor-intensive work of laying each unit on a prepared base. The gap narrows with decorative concrete, though: a stamped concrete patio can approach paver pricing. The trade-offs matter beyond price. Concrete is faster to install and low-maintenance but can crack over time and is hard to repair invisibly. Pavers cost more but individual units lift out and replace, and they flex with ground movement without cracking. Concrete suits budget-focused, low-maintenance projects; pavers suit those wanting a premium, easily-repairable look. The calculator estimates the concrete option, including stamped finishes if you want the paver look in concrete.

A standard concrete patio is poured 4 inches thick over a compacted gravel base, which handles foot traffic, furniture, and typical use. Upgrade to 5–6 inches with rebar or wire-mesh reinforcement where the patio will carry heavier loads — a hot tub (water alone is thousands of pounds), an outdoor kitchen, a fire feature, or any vehicle traffic. Thicker, reinforced slabs resist cracking and add longevity but cost more (the calculator adds about $1/sq ft for 5 inches and $2 for 6). Just as important as thickness, though, are a well-compacted base and properly placed control joints — those prevent cracks as much as the slab depth does. For a standard patio, 4 inches is the norm; upgrade the thickness only under the areas that will bear heavy features.

Some hairline cracking over time is normal — concrete shrinks as it cures and moves with temperature changes. The keys to keeping cracks minimal and cosmetic rather than structural are a well-compacted gravel base, proper slab thickness, adequate reinforcement (wire mesh or rebar), and correctly placed control joints. Control joints are the grooves cut or tooled into the slab that create planned weak lines, so the inevitable shrinkage cracking happens neatly along them instead of randomly across the surface. Good drainage and grading away from the house help, as does sealing. You can't guarantee a forever crack-free patio, but a quality install — solid base prep, the right joints, and reinforcement — keeps cracking to thin, controlled lines rather than the wide, wandering cracks of a poorly built slab. The calculator includes base-prep and rebar add-ons for exactly this.

Sealing isn't strictly required, but it's recommended — especially for colored, stamped, and exposed-aggregate patios. A quality sealer protects against stains (food, grease, leaves), moisture penetration, freeze-thaw scaling in cold climates, and UV fading of colored finishes, and it makes the patio easier to clean. Decorative finishes benefit most because the sealer enhances and preserves their color and pattern (stamped concrete looks noticeably richer sealed). Plain broom-finish patios can be left unsealed but still last longer with periodic sealing. Most sealers need reapplying every 2–3 years. It's a low-cost, worthwhile step that extends the patio's life and appearance, which is why the calculator offers it as an add-on. In freeze-thaw and salt regions especially, sealing is cheap insurance against surface scaling.

Most residential concrete patios are completed in 1 to 3 days of active work. The crew excavates and grades the area, sets the gravel base and forms, places any reinforcement, then pours and finishes the concrete — usually a one- to two-day sequence. Decorative finishes like stamping or exposed aggregate add finishing time, and later, sealing. After the pour, the concrete cures: it's typically safe to walk on after 24–48 hours, but keep furniture and heavy items off it for about a week, and full strength comes at around 28 days. Removing an old patio first adds time. Cold weather slows curing and may require covering the slab. Plan the project around the cure window — putting furniture or a hot tub on a green slab too soon risks cracking. The calculator estimates cost; your contractor will give a schedule.

Sometimes, but it's often not ideal. Pouring a new overlay or slab over an existing patio can work if the old surface is structurally sound, stable, and properly prepped, and if the added height won't cause drainage or door-clearance problems. But any cracks or movement in the old patio tend to telegraph up through the new concrete, and bonding requires careful surface preparation. In most cases — especially if the existing patio is cracked, heaving, or uneven — removing the old surface and pouring on a fresh, properly compacted base gives a far more durable, longer-lasting result. Overlaying a failing patio usually just delays and hides the underlying problem. That's why the calculator includes an option to remove the existing patio first (+$3/sq ft for demolition and disposal); for a sound slab you might overlay, but for a damaged one, tear-out is the better investment.

For the right project, yes. Stamped concrete presses patterns into the wet slab to mimic stone, brick, slate, or wood, with color hardener and release agents for realistic tone — giving a high-end, custom look at less than the cost of real stone or pavers, and at the highest concrete rate (~$16+/sq ft). It's worth it when curb appeal and a premium appearance matter, when you want the paver/stone look without paver maintenance (no joints to weed or re-sand), and when the patio is a focal point. The trade-offs: it costs roughly double a broom finish, needs resealing every 2–3 years to keep its color and pattern, can be slippery when wet (an anti-slip additive helps), and shows surface wear over many years. For a budget or utility patio, broom finish is the smart spend; for a showcase outdoor living space, stamped often justifies the premium. The calculator prices both so you can weigh it.

Concrete is low-maintenance, but a little care keeps it looking good and lasting for decades. Sweep and rinse it regularly, and clean stains (oil, grease, leaf tannin, rust) promptly before they set. Reseal every 2–3 years — essential for decorative finishes, beneficial for plain ones — to resist stains, moisture, and freeze-thaw scaling. In cold climates, avoid rock salt and chloride de-icers, which accelerate surface flaking; use sand for traction instead. Keep water draining away from the slab (clear gutters and grade), since pooling and freeze-thaw drive most concrete damage, and caulk any control-joint or hairline cracks with a flexible sealant before water gets in. Trim back roots and plantings that could heave the edge. Done consistently, this routine keeps a concrete patio crack-controlled and attractive for its full 25–30+ year life. The calculator includes a sealer add-on as part of that protection.