Concrete Patio Cost Calculator

In 2026, a concrete patio typically costs $6-$20 per square foot installed, so a standard 300 sq ft broom-finish patio runs about $2,400-$3,600, and a stamped or decorative patio of the same size can reach $4,500-$6,000. A basic 4-inch broom-finish patio is at the low end ($6-$10/sq ft), while colored, exposed aggregate, and stamped finishes cost $11-$20/sq ft. The total depends on the area, the finish, slab thickness, whether an old patio must be removed, and site prep like grading and a gravel base. Small patios carry a minimum charge because of the fixed cost of forming and finishing.

A standard broom finish is the cheapest and most popular concrete patio finish. After the concrete is poured and smoothed, a broom is dragged across the surface to create a fine texture that provides slip resistance — important for an outdoor surface that gets wet. It's economical (~$6-$10/sq ft installed), durable, and low-maintenance. Colored or stained concrete adds visual appeal for a bit more, while exposed aggregate and especially stamped concrete (which mimics stone, brick, or pavers) are the most expensive decorative options. If budget is the priority, a broom finish — optionally with a single integral color — gives the best value.

Generally, yes — a poured concrete patio is usually cheaper to install than a paver patio of the same size. Plain or broom-finish concrete is the most economical option, while pavers cost more due to the materials and the labor-intensive process of laying each unit on a prepared base. However, the gap narrows with decorative concrete: a stamped concrete patio can approach paver pricing. The trade-offs: concrete is faster to install and low-maintenance but can crack over time and is harder to repair invisibly; pavers cost more but individual units can be lifted and replaced, and they flex with ground movement without cracking. Concrete suits budget-focused, low-maintenance projects; pavers suit those wanting a premium, easily-repairable look.

A standard concrete patio is poured 4 inches thick over a compacted gravel base, which is sufficient for foot traffic, furniture, and typical patio use. If the patio will support heavier loads — such as a hot tub, an outdoor kitchen, or vehicle traffic — 5 to 6 inches with rebar or wire mesh reinforcement is recommended. Thicker slabs and reinforcement resist cracking and add longevity but cost more. A proper compacted base and correct control joints matter as much as thickness for preventing cracks. For a standard patio, 4 inches is the norm; upgrade the thickness where you'll place heavy features.

Concrete naturally shrinks as it cures and moves with temperature changes, so some hairline cracking is normal over time. The keys to minimizing cracks are a well-compacted gravel base, proper slab thickness, adequate reinforcement (wire mesh or rebar), and correctly placed control joints — the grooves that create planned weak lines so cracking happens neatly along them rather than randomly. Good drainage and grading away from the house also help, as does sealing the surface. While you can't guarantee a crack-free patio forever, quality installation with proper base prep, joints, and reinforcement keeps cracking minimal and cosmetic rather than structural.

Sealing isn't strictly required, but it's recommended — especially for colored, stamped, and exposed-aggregate patios. A quality sealer protects the surface from stains (food, grease, leaves), moisture penetration, freeze-thaw scaling in cold climates, and UV fading of colored finishes, and it makes the patio easier to clean. Decorative finishes particularly benefit because the sealer enhances and preserves their color and pattern. Plain broom-finish patios can be left unsealed but still benefit from periodic sealing for longevity. Most sealers need reapplication every 2-3 years. It's offered as an add-on here because it's an optional but worthwhile step that extends the patio's life and appearance.

Most residential concrete patio projects are completed in 1-3 days of active work. The crew excavates and grades the area, sets the gravel base and forms, places any reinforcement, then pours and finishes the concrete — usually a one- to two-day sequence. Decorative finishes like stamping or exposed aggregate add finishing and, later, sealing time. After the pour, the concrete needs to cure: it's typically safe to walk on after 24-48 hours, but you should keep furniture and heavy items off it for about a week, and full strength is reached at around 28 days. Removing an old patio first adds time to the project.

Sometimes, but it's often not ideal. Pouring a new concrete overlay or slab over an existing patio can work if the old surface is structurally sound, stable, and properly prepared, and if the added height won't cause drainage or door-clearance problems. However, any cracks or movement in the old patio tend to telegraph up through the new concrete, and bonding requires careful surface prep. In most cases — especially if the existing patio is cracked, heaving, or uneven — removing the old surface and pouring on a fresh, properly compacted base produces a far more durable, longer-lasting result. That's why this calculator includes an option to remove the existing patio first.