Cabinet Installation Cost Calculator

In 2026, cabinet installation typically costs $120 to $400 per linear foot, including cabinets and labor, depending on the type, grade, and complexity. For an average kitchen of 25 linear feet, that's roughly $4,500 to $13,000 for stock-to-semi-custom cabinets, and more for custom. Labor alone for installing cabinets (if you supply them) usually runs $50 to $120 per linear foot. The biggest cost factors are the cabinet grade (stock is most affordable, semi-custom mid-range, and custom the most expensive — often doubling the cost), the cabinet type and room (garage and storage cabinets are cheapest, kitchen and bathroom vanity cabinets more), and the linear footage. Removing old cabinets, plus extras like crown molding, soft-close hardware, knobs and pulls, and under-cabinet lighting, add to the total. Note that countertops, appliances, and plumbing are typically priced separately from the cabinets. This calculator lets you compare cabinet types and grades to estimate your project, whether it's a kitchen, bathroom, garage, or built-in cabinet installation.

These three grades represent increasing levels of customization, quality, and cost. Stock cabinets are pre-manufactured in standard sizes and a limited range of styles, finishes, and configurations — they're the most affordable and readily available (often in stock at home centers), install quickly, and work well when standard sizes fit your space, but you're limited in dimensions and options. Semi-custom cabinets are also based on standard lines but offer more flexibility — a wider range of sizes (often in smaller increments), more door styles, finishes, materials, and modifications and accessories — giving a more tailored look at a moderate price increase (this calculator uses about 40% more than stock). Custom cabinets are built to order from scratch to your exact specifications — any size, style, material, finish, and feature you want, ideal for unusual layouts, specific design visions, or maximizing every inch — but they're the most expensive (roughly double stock) and take longer to produce. For budget projects or standard layouts, stock is great value; for more personalization without full custom cost, semi-custom is popular; for a one-of-a-kind result or tricky spaces, custom delivers. This calculator lets you compare all three grades.

No, countertops are almost always priced and installed separately from the cabinets, and this calculator estimates the cabinets and their installation only. Cabinets and countertops are two distinct parts of a kitchen or bathroom project: the cabinets (boxes, doors, drawers) are installed first, leveled and secured to the walls, and then the countertops are measured (templated) to the installed cabinets and fabricated and installed afterward — often by a different specialist, especially for stone countertops like granite or quartz that require precise templating and fabrication. Countertop cost depends heavily on the material (laminate is cheap; granite, quartz, and marble are much more) and is typically priced per square foot, so it's calculated on its own. Similarly, appliances, sinks, faucets, plumbing, and backsplashes are separate line items. When budgeting a full kitchen, remember to add countertops (a significant cost), appliances, and any plumbing/electrical work on top of the cabinet estimate. This calculator focuses on the cabinets so you get an accurate cabinet number; use separate estimates for countertops and other components. Keeping these separate is standard practice in the industry.

Cabinet installation is a moderately advanced DIY project that handy homeowners can tackle, but professional installation ensures a level, secure, and properly aligned result, which matters a lot for both function and appearance. The challenges of DIY cabinet installation include: getting everything perfectly level and plumb (walls and floors are rarely straight, so cabinets must be shimmed precisely — and any unevenness shows, especially where countertops sit), securely fastening cabinets to wall studs so they bear weight safely, aligning doors and drawers for even gaps and smooth operation, scribing and fitting filler pieces against walls, and handling heavy upper cabinets (often a two-person job). Mistakes can lead to crooked cabinets, doors that don't align, or, worse, cabinets that aren't secure. Stock cabinets in a simple layout are the most DIY-friendly; complex layouts, custom cabinets, and anything involving plumbing or electrical relocations are better for pros. Many homeowners save money by doing demolition (removing old cabinets) themselves and hiring out the installation, or vice versa. If you have carpentry skills, patience, and a helper, DIY can save the labor cost; for a guaranteed professional result, especially in a kitchen where countertops depend on level cabinets, hiring an installer is worthwhile. This calculator estimates professional installation.

Yes, cabinet costs vary by where they go and their purpose, which is why this calculator lets you choose the cabinet type. Garage and storage cabinets are typically the most economical per linear foot — they're often more utilitarian (sometimes metal or basic materials), prioritize function over fine finishes, and don't require the detailed fitting of kitchen cabinets. Laundry room and office built-in cabinets are a moderate step up, offering more finish and functionality. Kitchen cabinets are the benchmark — they come in the widest range of styles and quality, get heavy daily use, and involve careful installation around appliances and countertops. Bathroom vanity cabinets often cost a bit more per linear foot than kitchen cabinets because they're usually short runs (so fixed costs spread over fewer feet), they're built to handle a humid environment, and they involve plumbing for the sink. Beyond the room, the grade (stock/semi-custom/custom) and material drive cost more than the room type itself. So a stock garage cabinet run is much cheaper than a custom kitchen, while a semi-custom bathroom vanity sits in between. This calculator accounts for the cabinet type and grade so you can estimate any cabinet project accurately.

Cabinet upgrades like soft-close hinges and drawer slides are popular and generally considered worthwhile for the noticeable improvement in feel, quietness, and longevity. Soft-close hardware uses a damper that catches doors and drawers as they close, preventing slamming — they shut quietly and gently every time, which feels high-end, reduces wear on the cabinets, and is especially appreciated in homes with kids or shared spaces. Many quality cabinets now include soft-close as standard, but on stock or budget cabinets it can be an upgrade (this calculator offers it as an add-on). Other common worthwhile upgrades include: quality knobs and pulls (hardware significantly affects the look and is relatively inexpensive to upgrade), under-cabinet lighting (great for kitchen task lighting and ambiance), crown molding atop wall cabinets (a finished, custom look), pull-out shelves and organizers (convenience), and full-extension drawer slides (access to the full drawer). These extras add cost but enhance daily use and the finished appearance, and they're easier and cheaper to include during installation than to add later. Which are 'worth it' depends on your budget and priorities, but soft-close and good hardware are among the most popular for the value they add. This calculator lets you add crown molding, soft-close, hardware, lighting, and more.

Linear feet is the standard way cabinets are measured and priced, and it's straightforward once you understand the convention. A linear foot is simply one foot of length measured horizontally along the run of cabinets against the wall. To measure: use a tape measure to find the total length of all the cabinet runs along your walls, in inches, then divide by 12 to get linear feet. For example, if you have 15 feet of cabinets along one wall and 9 feet along another, that's 24 linear feet total. The convention typically counts base (lower) and wall (upper) cabinets together by their shared length — so a 10-foot run with both base and upper cabinets is counted as 10 linear feet, not 20, with the pricing accounting for both. (Some estimates separate base and wall cabinets, so confirm with your supplier how they count.) Don't count tall pantry cabinets and islands the same way as standard runs — islands and specialty pieces are often priced separately. For a quick estimate, measure the wall length your cabinets occupy. The linear-foot measurement, combined with the cabinet grade and type, gives the cost basis. This calculator uses total linear feet, so measure your cabinet runs and enter the total to estimate your project.

Cabinet installation time depends on the size and complexity of the project. For a typical kitchen (20 to 30 linear feet), professional cabinet installation usually takes 2 to 4 days for the cabinets alone, with the timeline including removing old cabinets (if applicable), checking and marking level lines, hanging the upper cabinets, setting and leveling the base cabinets, securing everything to studs, installing fillers and trim, and hanging and adjusting doors and drawers. A small project like a single bathroom vanity might take just a few hours to a day, while a large kitchen with custom cabinets, islands, and lots of detail can take a week or more. Keep in mind that cabinet installation is one phase of a larger kitchen or bath project — after cabinets are installed, countertops are templated and installed (often a separate visit a week or so later, especially for stone), followed by backsplash, plumbing fixtures, and appliances, so the full project spans longer. For custom cabinets, there's also a lead time of several weeks to months for the cabinets to be built before installation can even begin. Stock cabinets are available quickly. Your installer can give a specific timeline based on your cabinet type, grade, layout, and whether removal is involved. This calculator estimates the cabinet installation cost; the schedule depends on these factors.